Showing posts with label Reader Questions. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Reader Questions. Show all posts

Tuesday, February 16, 2010

Simple Alterations - Part II


So much positive feedback. And I can't stress the importance, and benefit, of simple alterations.


Can jacket sleeves be "opened" (made working)?
Yes. However, this is very tricky work, and only a very good tailor (one who works for a custom clothing shop, for example) will be willing and able to punch holes in a garment. Cost: approx $25-35 per sleeve


Can pleated pants be made flat-front?
Technically, yes, but this involves remaking the entire waistband of the pants, and re-engineering the fit. The results can vary, not to mention it is very expensive. Cost: just get some new pants, it will likely be less expensive and you can ensure the proper fit


Can a shirt be taken-in (made slimmer)?
Absolutely. I've had the body slimmed on dozens of shirts. It's a simple cut and sew. Also, the sleeves can be taken in as well. Cost: $15-30 body, $10-25 sleeves




Can shirt sleeves be made longer?
No. (unless you find some similar fabric to be added at the shoulder...which is ridiculous...so no)

Can shirt sleeves be made shorter?
Yes, by some seamstresses. The sleeve is removed, fabric is cut, and sleeve is re-attached. Cost: $20-35 per sleeve. 

Thanks for reading. 
More to come...

Yours in style,
SB

What a tailor can & can't do (Part 1 - Suit Jacket/Blazer)


I've said it time and time again, looking good in your clothing is all about fit! It's much better to have a $250 H&M suit that fits properly then to have a $2500 Armani suit that doesn't. Trust me!


With that said, when shopping for tailored clothing it is important to understand what alterations your tailor (and by tailor, I mean your typical local seamstress) can and cannot do. So here is a brief FAQ of basic tailoring services along with approximate price ranges (based on NYC prices).

Can the shoulders be extended (made larger)?
No.

Can the shoulders be taken-in (made smaller)?
In theory, yes, but this means reconstructing the entire jacket and can be very expensive (in many cases, more expensive than the jacket itself). For this reason, make sure you buy a jacket that fits properly in the shoulders! Cost: not worth it

Can the sleeves be made longer?
In most cases, yes, but only by the amount of fabric that is available on the underside of the sleeve, up to the beginning of the sleeve lining (see pic below). Also keep in mind the if the jacket has working or "surgeon's" buttons, those holes cut in the fabric cannot be covered or moved. A good tailor can, however, add a button hole or two if necessary to balance the extended sleeved (I wear 5 buttons on my sleeves anyway). Cost: $15-30 per sleeve (extra button hole(s) not included)


Can a suit sleeve be shortened?
Yes, but again, if the buttons on the sleeves are functional, then shortening the sleeve can bring the button holes awkwardly close to the end of the sleeve. Handle proportions with care. Cost: $15-30 per sleeve

Can a jacket be let-out (made roomier) in the sides?
More than likely no, because a typical off-the-rack suit comes with very little seam allowance on the sides.

Can a jacket be taken-in (made slimmer) in the sides?
Yes! This one alteration can make a significant improvement in the fit of the jacket. Cost: $25-$60

Can a jacket be made longer?
No.

Can a jacket be made shorter?
In theory, yes a jacket can be "chopped", but this is risky because it can throw off the balance of the pockets as well as the proportion of the button stance. Cost: $80-100+

Can the "roll" at the back of my neck be removed?
Yes, but only by an experienced tailor. Cost: $50-75


Lastly. Is it worth paying $50-100 in alterations for a jacket or suit that wasn't very expensive?
ABSOLUTELY.


More to come...

Yours in style,
SB

Thursday, January 21, 2010

Reader Question: Too Small for Velvet?


Reader:

I was recently throwing together an idea for an outfit I had that involves a velvet blazer. When I showed friends and co-workers pictures, they all seemed to like the outfit. However, a couple people said the same thing, "You're too small for velvet." I'm 5'9" with a lean, rower's build. Could you explain why velvet may be a poor choice for me?



SB:

Thanks for reading. I'm really happy you asked this question!

I was just putting together a post with a message that goes something like this: don't let others decide what you wear! You should dress how you want to dress, in a manner that makes you feel good, and to express yourself. If I changed every time somebody commented on my outfit, I would have nothing to wear! With that said, it is also important to understand what works for you, and what simply doesn't (some people are haters, but some people are right when they say you look ridiculous).

Too small for velvet? Nahhh. Never heard of it. Besides, I hate "rules" like that. Keep in mind, though, that velvet does attract attention, so people will be looking. And when people glance, the first thing they'e going to notice is your most obvious physical attribute - body size, and in your case - your height.

It really depends on your level of confidence. Some guys are self conscious about their height or weight, and for those guys I recommend staying away from loud clothing such as bold pinstripes, bright colors and, yes, velvet jackets.

Hope this helps!

Yours in style,
SB

Sunday, January 3, 2010

Reader Question: iTux


Reader:

I am helping a friend pick out a tux for his wedding, and was wondering what suggestions you would have for a tall, portly man looking for something classy but conservative.  Would a vest be better than a cumberbun to give a slimmer appearance?  What about straight tie vs. bow tie?  Shawl lapel vs. peak?  Thanks for the help!


SB:


Great question! If there is ever a time when a man wants to look his best, it's when he is wearing a tuxedo. For a "portly" man, dressing for your body type is all about drawing attention to your "assets" rather than your "liabilities". With that said, I would suggest a two-piece peak lapel tuxedo with a straight tie. 


The peak lapels will draw attention to the shoulders (thus taking attention away from the mid-section). Stay away from the vest, it will make your friend look too "stuffed" and it distorts the perfect black/white ratio that makes a classic tuxedo so sharp. Same goes for cumberbuns; they are outdated and will only draw eyes to the stomach. Also, consider a white cotton or linen pocket square folded straight and just peaking from the breast pocket, again,  to accentuate the chest.


Your friend should wear a long tie rather than a bow tie on his big day because the north-south line will offer a slimming effect. Along that same line (no pun intended) your friend should leave the belt at home and wear black suspenders. This will allow him to "float" his waist, rather than choosing to strap his pants above or below his belly. Also, a belt (like any accessories, lines, or stripes that run east-west) would only draw attention to his width.


Also, keep in mind that fit is even more important if you are a heavy guy. Some big guys think that a "roomy" suit will hide the fact that they are overweight. This is not true. A bad fit makes you look sloppy, not slimmer. Lastly, a clean shave and a fresh haircut can go a looong way to looking more put-together. 



photo by GQ 
(not a tuxedo, but a great example of a heavy-set guy cleaning up nicely)


Some other general tuxedo guidelines:
- 1 button is best
- The lapels should be 100% satin, and ideally your tie should be made from the same bolt of fabric
- Like a suit, double vented looks best (in my opinion)
- No collar pins, tie bars, brooches, lapel pins, stripes socks, chunky bracelets, oversized watches...or other "statement" accessories. Its a tuxedo, keep in simple, keep it classic
- No button-down collar shirts. Semi-spread is best
- French cuffs with small, simple cuff links
- Keep your jacket buttoned when standing
- Black socks, simple elegant black leather lace-up shoes, freshly shined (skip the cheap-looking patent leather shoes) 
- White shirt. Black tie. Period.


Thanks for reading, and congrats!


Yours in style,
SB

Wednesday, December 16, 2009

Reader Questions: Boat Shoes + Socks?


Reader:

I was wondering how you felt about wearing some sort of graphic socks with boat shoes. I know it's a stretch, but I do wear straight slim or skinny jeans (that aren't too tight) so a little bit of my foot shows.

SB:

You know how some car commercials have a caption that says something like "Proffessional driver on a closed course. Do not attempt". Well, this is kinda like that.

Normally, socks with boat shoes - hell no. But, like I always say, rules are meant to be broken, and the most stylish people break them regularly. I do have a couple guidelines that could help you succeed:

- Never with shorts
- Not in the middle of winter (even with socks, boat shoes are three-season)
- Keep your pant leg opening slim. Like 7.5" across slim.
- Keep your inseam short. Like hardly touching the back of your shoe, hemmed at an angle so the front hits even higher, short. (or roll your pants/jeans)
- Wear striped socks, not argyle, check, or polka dot
- Wear the thicker, ribbed socks 
- Keep the majority of the stripes muted, and consistent with the tone of your pants. Maybe one thin colorful stripe, but you don't want them to be too loud.

 For Example, look for something like this:


Socks by Smart Turnout

Here is a rare picture of this look very well executed:


Photo by GQ

Thanks for reading,
SB

Sunday, November 29, 2009

Reader Question: Denim Shirt


Reader:

Ok here is a quick and easy one. Denim shirt. Should I? How should I pull it off?

Been looking at this one (below) from Banana Republic. Thinking I would get it, wash it a few times to give it a more worn-in look and wear it with dark unwashed jeans with a nice slim straight cut.  Thoughts?




SB:

Absolutely!

I love denim shirts. I'm actually wearing one right now (a really beat-in version from RRL). I love the look. Styling can be a bit tricky though, but considering you are planning to lose your denim-shirt-virginity with jeans on, I'm assuming you know a thing or two about tricky styling. Just remember to keep the washes different, you don't want to end up looking like Jay Leno.



As a "safer" alternative, wear it with slim khakis, brown corduroys, or light gray jeans. Also, try to get a cut that is short enough that you can wear untucked, or nonchalantly half-tucked. And remember, you don't need to pair it with anything "in your face" or any loud accessories, the shirt already makes a statement.

Thanks for reading.

Yours in style,
SB

Sunday, November 15, 2009

Reader Question: Flat Front w/ Cuffs


Reader:

Due to my build I find that flat front pants are more flattering. Since you typically only see cuffs on pleated pants, I’m at the point of buying my flat front pants longer and having the tailor create the cuffs. Is this a fashion faux pas?

Thanks!


SB:

Hey. Thanks for reading.

Not at all! I do it all the time. In fact, I only wear flat front pants, and most of my heavier weight pants have cuffs. For a cooler look, try a wider 2 - 2 1/4" cuff, and keep the pants short with little to no break.

Yours in style,
SB

Sunday, November 8, 2009

Reader Question: The Pant Problem


Reader:

Hey Style Blogger,

Over time I've been able to find shirts that fit well, but have difficulty when it comes to pants. I've purchased a number of pants from brands like Banana Republic, but when I wear them under a fitted shirt/blazer they appear heavy/blocky. So getting that sleeker (not skinny pant) look is difficult. What brand/type of pants should I buy (that won't need to be chopped up at the tailor). I am willing to taper to 7" but want to know if there is more to it.  I am seriously considering having my mom teach me how to sew.


 

SB:

I know exactly what you mean. Since there are so many factors that go into their fit (waist size, seat allowance, thigh width, calf width, inseam length, ankle width, posture, how you walk, how the fabric drapes, etc.) it is very difficult to find a pair of pants that fit properly.

I struggled for years trying to find the perfect fit, including countless visits to the seamstress (some good, some not so good). The last straw was when I had to throw out some pants because they were so chopped-up that they looked like a home-ec project.

Then I went custom, and never looked back. Not only can you get the exact fit you are looking for, but you can also choose from hundreds of fabrics and customize all the details to your preference. It may be slightly more expensive, but I would much rather have 2 pairs of perfect-fitting pants (probably dark navy and medium gray to start) than 4 pairs of ill-fitting pants. Besides, if they fit properly, they will last much longer since there is less strain on them from everyday movement.

If you are in NYC, or plan on visiting anytime soon, check out my guys at MAB. You will love them.

Hope this helps,
SB

Reader Question: Grey Jeans


Reader:

Hey Dan,

What are your thoughts on grey jeans? This seems like a decent way of changing up my jean cycle. Thanks



 SB:

TWO THUMBS WAY UP!

Just like indigo wash selvedge, keep them slim (not skinny) and straight through the leg. Also, keep the back pockets blank (or simple) and wear them at your waist.

Thanks for reading,
-SB

Thursday, November 5, 2009

Reader Question: Hard Knock Loafs


Reader:

I have had a problem of wearing through the soles of shoes quickly and it is really frustrating. I had a pair of black hugo boss shoes that only lasted 6 months before i put a hole through the sole. I also own a pair of Teran shoes (a brand from buenos aires) and they are beautiful shoes but I have the same problem. The only pair that seems to hold up are my Ferragamos, but they were $300 and I would rather not spend that much if I dont have to. Please recommend some good shoes for me.

SB:

Wow, sounds like you are pretty rough on your shoes! I would recommend rubber soled shoes, with thicker bottoms, rather than slim leather soled shoes (a la Hugo Boss shoes). Rubber soles do not wear down as easily, and as an added bonus they are usually more comfortable for walking.

Thicker Rubber Sole:


Shoes by J. Crew

However, if you are like me and would rather wear slimmer, sleeker, leather soled shoes, as a second option I would recommend buying a quality (preferably hand-made) leather soled shoe. Although it will cost you a little more (like your Ferragamo's) the uppers will virtually last you a lifetime, and when the soles wear down, you can take them to your local shoe repair guy to have them re-soled at a fraction of the price of a new pair.

Thinner Leather Sole:


Shoes by Paul Smith

In addition, consider getting protective "taps" (plastic, not metal tap-dancing "clickers") on the toes and heels of your shoes. You can get this done for about $5 and it can dramatically delay the death of your shoes (assuming the toes and heels are taking the brunt of the damage...which for most guys is the case)



Another piece of advice is to have a few pairs in your rotation. Wearing the same pair everyday is asking for them to get beat-up in a hurry. Lastly, perhaps try not to drag your feet. More friction against the sidewalk = more wear to your bottoms.

Hope this helps!

Thanks for reading,
SB

Sunday, November 1, 2009

Reader Question: Tiny Knot


Reader:

Hey SB,

I’m really into this slim tie thing, but I’m 6’2, and whenever I try to make a knot, no matter if it is a four-in-hand or a Windsor knot, whatever I get is a really tiny knot. As a result, people stare at the knot itself (or the near non-existence of it) not the tie. I know a small collar may help, but, do you have any specific technique to make a good knot in a skinny tie?

Thanks.



SB:

Hey, great question! I know exactly what you are talking about, and it can be frustrating.

Yes, a smaller collar would help balance out your smaller knot (and would look very "of the moment"), although I am not a big fan of the tiny collar thing that has taken over in high-fashion. The trick is to use a higher quality, thicker (not wider, but more "gerthy") tie made of multi-ply silk. Regardless of the width of the tie, this will help give your knot some heft. If you are not up for getting all new ties, try knotting your tie further down its body, making it longer so that you don't have to pull it so tight (the looser you tie it, the bigger your knot will be). 

Short of that, I wouldn't go too crazy trying to reinvent your skinny tie wardrobe...my prediction is it won't be very long before all the super-skinny stuff is "soooo yesterday".

Hope this helps. 

Thanks for reading,
SB

Monday, October 26, 2009

Reader Question: Human Drop


Reader: 

My question is about sizing a suit properly.  I am about 6 feet tall and weigh about 185-190 pounds and I just finished playing college football.  I am not really muscular but in order to get the proper fit in the chest I have to go with a suit with pants that are much too big in the waist.  I understand I need to get the suit altered, but they can only take-in the waist so much right?


Thanks SB!



SB:

Hey. Thanks for reading.

Like alot of my friends, you have an athletic build which makes it hard to fit suits. Unfortunately for guys like you, the standard suit comes with a 6 or 7 inch "drop", meaning the waist measurement of the pants is 6 or 7 inches smaller than the chest measurement of the jacket (i.e. suit size 40, waist size 33 or 34). Since we are all human and rarely fit this standard mold, this makes it difficult for many guys to buy suits off-the-rack. 

Unless you are ready to make the jump to custom, you need to buy suit separates rather than suits. Think of it as a matching jacket and pants sold separately of which you can choose any size. Get the jacket in whatever size fits you in the shoulders and chest, then you can easily have the sides taken-in and the sleeves lengthened/shortened at your local tailoring shop (or have it done at the store when you buy the jacket). Get the pants in whatever size fits your waist best, the less taking-in/letting-out the better.

Hope this helps,
SB

Saturday, October 24, 2009

Reader Question: Slim & Tall


Reader:

Great Blog, as always.  I'm 6' 6" with a slender body type and in a dress shirt my sleeve length is 36/37.  It's always been a challenge for me to to find long sleeve casual shirts that fit my arms. Most manufacture's XL shirts are way to baggy on me and look sloppy and I generally am better with a Large-Tall size shirt. Since a lot of the nicer clothing brands don't carry Tall sizes I'm limited in what I can wear and end up shopping a lot at Banana Republic, who does.  Any tips on how a tall man can expand his wardrobe and dress stylish?



 SB:

Hey, thanks for reading. Coincidentally, after playing basketball in college, many of my friends are of the tall variety (think 6'6" to 7'1") so I can relate to what you are going through.

You have the right idea with not sizing-up just to get the added sleeve length. Definitely look for the Large-Tall size rather than traditional XL. Stick with shirts that fit you in the neck and shoulders, then if necessary you can easily get the sides taken-in at your local seamtress for about $10-$15. Between Bananarepublic.com, Jcrew.com and Polo.com, who all carry tall sizes, you should have more than enough selection. Each one of these brands makes a quality product, so if you know how to put it together, you can look just as good (if not better) than shorter guys wearing the "for small guys only" high-fashion brands.

Hope this helps,
SB

Thursday, October 22, 2009

Reader Question: Double Monk

Reader:

Hey Dan,
So I saw this latest post on The Sartorialist with Lino in a pair of double monk strap shoes:


I happened to find a nice pair by Allen Edmonds (link below), but what do you personally think of these shoes? (where should they be worn, color, etc.):



 PS: What are you thoughts on Allen Edmonds?
Thanks, man, hope all is well. (From a SEAS '08 alum)


SB:

Hey, thanks for the Columbia love!

I love double monkstrap shoes, they are certainly head-turners (especially when done with such Italian panache). However, I find it difficult to find a pair that has a sleek design and a nicely shaped toe, many look boxy and more "old school academic" than "bad ass stylish motherf-er" (as I like mine to look, hah). I'd say these Alan Edmonds fall in the first category more than the second.

Allan Edmonds is one of only two brands still making shoes in the US (the other being Alden), and their history is strongly woven into the national landscape since they provided shoes for the Army and Navy during WWII. They are excellently crafted shoes that will certainly outwear many other brands. With that said, though, there is something about their design that always struck me as suitable for older gentlemen who are not trying to make too much of a style statement.

Since you graduated in '08, my suggestion would be to find something slighlty more sleek. I would start with the Italian fashion houses. Take a look at the two pairs below by Prada and Gucci, respectively. It's kind of hard to explain, but see how their shape just looks more "style-aggressive" (the soles are not as bulky, the toes are sharply rounded, the monk straps are slimmer and slightly angled). These small details might not seem like a big deal, but it makes all the difference.


 
The price will be comparable to slightly more expensive than the A Edmonds, but remember the golden rule of buying footwear. Not to mention, if you get the right pair, you can wear them dressy, wear them casually...wear them as much as you f-ing want.



Thanks for reading,
SB

Monday, October 19, 2009

Reader Question: Big Ben


Reader:

Hi Dan,

I must congratulate you on your blog. It's been a great inspiration to many including myself. Like myself, I know you like to interchange formal and casual items. I have recently read your tip of the day on watches, despite it being posted short of 3 months ago, but it left me partially questioning myself. I'm a big fan of large watches and I've been seeking one for quite some time.

My question… I rarely see unconventional oversized (51mm) watches paired with a suit, they tend to be smaller, classier, and a bit more discreet. Will the white oversized one look odd and/or out-of-proportion?




SB:

Hey, thanks for reading!

51mm! That's not a watch, that's a wall clock with a wristband! Unless you're Shaq Diesel at 7'2" / 350 lbs, I think it'll look a little funny with a suit. Your shirt cuff*, and maybe even your suit sleeve, will likely not fit over it's gigantic case, causing it to distract from your outfit rather than add to it.

I am a big fan of that Nixon piece, and love the idea of a white ceramic watch as a way to break up a "dressy" outfit, but I'd stay in the 35-41mm range (which is still considered L - XL). Don't go with the super-played-out white G-Shock...I'm pretty sure Nixon makes some smaller sizes. Although if it were me, I would save the $2,400 to invest in a more suit-appropriate classic that I can grow old with and pass down to my children like the Cartier Tank Solo or the IWC Portuguese, and find another way to dress down my suits. But hey, it's your money.

Yours in style,
SB

*for those who invest in custom clothing: did you know you can get your left (or right if you're a lefty) sleeve cuff adjusted to fit properly over your watch? Just ask your tailor!

Reader Question: Invisible Socks


Reader:

Okay, this Q is a bit late in the season, but I'll file your answer away for use next spring/summer.

I like the look of wearing loafers without socks when it's hot, but I hate the feel (and smell) of wearing shoes w/o socks. Do you have a suggestion for socks/stockings that cover only the necessary parts of the foot w/o peaking above the loafer?

Thanks a million in advance!

SB:

Of course! Many men are uncomfortable with authentic socklessness, and opt for faking it with "no show" or "loafer" socks; extra low cut socks that sit lower than the top of your shoes. Get them in black or brown (or whatever color to match your shoes in case they play peek-a-boo). You can pick up these from Banana Republic, 2 pairs for $14.99.

Thanks for reading, SB



Sunday, October 18, 2009

Reader Question: Gym Attire

Reader:
 
Hey Dan! I absolutely LOVE the blog (and I'm a woman!). Kinda wish you would include more pictures of yourself...I'm sure I'm not the only one curious as to what the "best dressed real man in America" is wearing =) Just a thought. Anyway, my question is about stylish/appropriate gym attire. My bf is never sure what to wear to workout and usually goes in his old frumpy college t-shirt. Any suggestions?

SB:

Hey! Thanks for reading. It's actually surprising how many messages I get from women who read my blog, so don't feel alone :) I'm glad you asked the gym attire question, its a popular one, and one that hits close to home. When I was an athlete in high school and college I literally lifted weights in rags and in a gym that (purposely) resembled a dungeon. It was all about toughness, grittiness and grunting. But now that I'm a grown man, no longer an athlete, and inevitably held to a standard after winning the said award, I've had to restructure my workout wardrobe.

First and foremost your gym attire needs to be functional. It should be comfortable, allow you to do full range of motion, and not get in the way of whatever exercise you are doing. Secondly, it is important, as when getting dressed for any occasion, to know and understand your body. If you sweat excessively wear darker colors to hide your wet patches and avoid leaving shiny streaks on the weight machines by keeping the cut-off shirts at home. Thirdly, keep in mind the movements you'll be making and dress accordingly; nobody wants to see a man's hairy lower back or sweaty upper thighs. Oh, and fourthly, no "wife-beater" tank-tops - no matter how "jacked" you are.

I usually wear workout specific "dry fit" polyester shirts because they contour the body without being sprinter-tight and they have "cooling" technology which (allegedly) breathes better than cotton and pushes sweat to the surface to ease evaporation and keep you dry and cool. With that I usually wear basketball shorts and running shoes with ankle socks, and an ipod clipped to the front of my shorts with the headphone wire running inside my shirt to keep it out of the way.

Hope this helps! -SB





 


And never forget:




Thursday, October 15, 2009

Reader Question: Contrasting Opinions

Reader:

Hey SB! LOVE the blog, my coworkers and I read it daily, keep it coming!

My question is concerning contrast collar shirts (i.e. colored shirts with white collars and cuffs). I've been trying to convince a coworker of mine that these shirts are outdated, but he stands by them. Perhaps you can solve our difference of opinion. What is your take? Thanks!

SB:

You, my friend, are 100% correct.

Unless you are dressing like Michael Douglas from Wall Street (or any other greedy '80s banker) for Halloween, these shirts should stay in the closet. It is a very difficult look to pull off without looking outdated, especially if the shirt is that once popular solid medium/royal blue color.

However, if you are planning on being MD for Halloween, don't forget the double pleated pants, the striped suspenders with white fasteners, and the gold tie bar cocked slightly at a downward angle (none of which are endorsed by this blog). Oh, and don't forget your loaf-of-bread-sized cell phone, which you should refer to as your "portable" phone.

In related news, keep an eye out for the well-tailored Shia Lebeouf in Wall Street 2 dropping February 2010.

Hope this helps solve your differences at work. Thanks for reading! -SB

Friday, October 9, 2009

Reader Question: Homemade Stay Slots

Reader:

Hey SB. Nice blog. I rarely read Esquire but saw you there. Congrats on the "best dressed" award.

Further to the issue of the "floppy collar", several of my favorite shirts don't have sewn-in slots for collar-stays. I've had my tailor iron in some stiff fabric to one of them as a test but it didn't work. These are Martin & Osa shirts - not the best but they fit me and my style well. Any thoughts as to how I can stiffen up the collars?

Thanks!

SB:

Hey, thanks for reading. A while back I also came across this problem, where my collars were "floppy" and they didn't have slots for collar stays. I brought these shirts to my local dry-cleaners/alterations place and simply had the seamstress sew some makeshift collar stay slots onto the underside of the collars. It worked out well and now I can pop in my metal collar stays (or, even better, the magnetic ones I wrote about not long ago) and my collars stand at attention.

As a tip, try one shirt first to see if you like the way it comes out, and bring a shirt with built-in collar stay slots with you to the seamstress to show as an example before any sewing begins.

Hope this helps. Yours in style, SB.

Sunday, September 27, 2009

Reader Question: Wedding Planning

Reader:

Hello Dan,

How've you been? Congrats on the Esquire award and on the blog!

My question is: do you think it is acceptable to dress like this [below] (like Bradley Cooper, on the left, I mean) for a wedding at night? It's now spring time here in Brazil so I thought of maybe giving the style a chance and try something 'lighter' as opposed to a black suit+white shirt+skinny tie combo, which i find really cool, but we know will be every other guy's choice.

Thanks!

SB:

Hey. I'm great! Thanks.

I understand why you'd want to look like Bradley Cooper, but this photograph is from a black tie event (i.e. tuxedo time). A wedding is not time for a tux for those attending as guests. I wouldn't wear black to a wedding either, it's a little too serious (and has a funeral vibe which can kinda send the wrong message). A wedding is a celebration, not time for mourning (regardless of how great you and your friend's bachelor days were).

Since the wedding is at night, you should go with something on the darker side. Alot of guys will be wearing black and navy, so if you want to stand-out from the crowd a little, go with a medium gray or even brown. Since it is spring down there, I would keep the shirt crispy white, leave the tie and socks at home, and throw on your most comfortable dance-friendly lace-ups. Have fun!

For the record, I don't agree with Coopers' going tie-less with a tux, or the black shirt for that matter...when wearing a tux you should be at your best and keep it simple, don't mess with it. Fun fact: the traditional reason why a tux is so "standard" (simple, no frills, black and white) is so that men can blend-in and let their women shine brightly in their dresses. But that's neither here nor there, and subject for a separate post.

Hope this helps! Yours in style, SB