As I've mentioned before, I only wear one watch. But I have a collection of bands and change them according to my outfit.
My new favorite watch band is the Nato G10 strap. It is 100% durable nylon and comes in a number of solid colors and stripes (the official "James Bond" edition being black/gray striped, as pictured).
The best part is, this great way to switch up your favorite watch can be picked up on eBay for about $15!
So feel free to pick up a couple different colors to add a unique punch to any outfit.
Now that cold weather is officially upon us, it's time to break out the heavier fabrics. I love this time of year because I have some kind of fettish for heavy oxford cloths, wool flannels, tweeds, and cashmeres. In fact, I like these thicker fabrics so much, I try to wear them head to toe in cold weather, including in my breast pocket.
I was looking to change up my basic white linen/cotton pocket square that I wear so often for something heavier, and more colorful, but couldn't find anything I liked, and didn't really want to pay $75 for a fricking handkerchief. So, here's my secret...
Go to a thrift or goodwill store:
Pick up a plaid flannel shirt for about $4:
Cut a square 16" x 16" out of the back of the shirt:
Fold the square like this:
TA-DA! You have a brand new, one-of-a-kind, winter-ized pocket square, for $4!
The great thing about this is, not only do you save $$ and get a truly unique accessory, but you also have a selection of hundreds, maybe thousands of fabrics to choose from.
We get it. You went to Hermes, or Ferragamo, or Dolce & Gabanna and spent $300+ on a new belt, and you want everyone to know. The irony is, there is nothing that makes a man look more corny (and borderline insecure) than a "I paid alot for this!" belt buckle. Not only does it take attention away from your outfit, but it pretty much screams "fashion victim".
Instead fellas, go with something slim, classic and subtle, like this alligator skin piece by Martin Dingman for dressy occasions:
Or this rough and rugged bridle leather strap by John Varvatos for more casual times:
On a similar note, if someone asks you what brand name a piece of your clothing is, don't be quick to shout a high-end designer's name. It doesn't make you cool. Even if you remember the exact price and the sale associates face, play it cool and act like you don't remember. Modesty is charming.
I must congratulate you on your blog. It's been a great inspiration to many including myself. Like myself, I know you like to interchange formal and casual items. I have
recently read your tip of the day on watches, despite it being posted
short of 3 months ago, but it left me partially questioning myself. I'm
a big fan of large watches and I've been seeking one for
quite some time.
My question… I rarely see unconventional oversized (51mm) watches
paired with a suit, they tend to be smaller, classier, and a bit more
discreet. Will the white oversized one look odd and/or
out-of-proportion?
SB:
Hey, thanks for reading!
51mm! That's not a watch, that's a wall clock with a wristband! Unless you're Shaq Diesel at 7'2" / 350 lbs, I think it'll look a little funny with a suit. Your shirt cuff*, and maybe even your suit sleeve, will likely not fit over it's gigantic case, causing it to distract from your outfit rather than add to it.
I am a big fan of that Nixon piece, and love the idea of a white ceramic watch as a way to break up a "dressy" outfit, but I'd stay in the 35-41mm range (which is still considered L - XL). Don't go with the super-played-out white G-Shock...I'm pretty sure Nixon makes some smaller sizes. Although if it were me, I would save the $2,400 to invest in a more suit-appropriate classic
that I can grow old with and pass down to my children like the Cartier Tank Solo or the IWC Portuguese, and find another way to dress down my suits. But hey, it's your money.
Yours in style,
SB
*for those who invest in custom clothing: did you know you can get your left (or right if you're a lefty) sleeve cuff adjusted to fit properly over your watch? Just ask your tailor!
Don't you hate when your pocket square falls into your pocket and nobody can see it? Well I do.
Here's a quick and simple solution: pin it in place.
I usually do this with a simple lapel pin (the ones with the small gold clip on the backside). Reach down inside your breast pocket and stick the pin through your folded (or "puffy") pocket square and through the inside of your pocket so that the small clip is on the inside of your jacket.
For those who don't like the idea of making a small hole in your jacket lining, the same trick can be accomplished using small magnets.
There you go, no more pesky disappearing pocket accessories.
1. I'm feeling the whole tie bar look and just got a pretty sweet one off of amazon.com...The more I rock it, the more I am realizing that I could have gotten a much better one. Mine is a little lengthy and isn't the kind that snaps into place, thus sliding it over the tie is a little annoying. Can you link/recommend any better alternatives that wont break the bank?
2. When you get your suit pants/slacks altered do you have the leg taken in, and if so what width do you ask for, i.e. 8 inches, 9 inches?
SB:
Hey, thanks for reading!
1. There are thousands of tie bars out there, of all lengths and widths. Some have engravings, some are even "bejeweled". My advice is to keep it simple...as simple as possible. Go with a narrow silver tie bar, 2 inches long (ideally you want your bar to reach perfectly across the width of your tie, no shorter, no longer). The one I wear is by Tiffany & Co. It is 100% .925 silver which will last longer than I will, and will not go out of style any sooner. Find it here. J. Crew has a similar one which is a little cheaper. Some guys get it engraved with their last name or something inspirational, but in my opinion this looks tacky. If you feel the need to mark your territory do it on the underside where it is concealed but just as much "yours".
Photo via GQ.com
2. I usually try to buy pants that are already tapered down in the ankle, but if you find a pair that you really like and they are not slim enough through the leg, yes you can have them tapered by your tailor. Just make sure you go to a good tailor because it can be tricky to make the tapper look natural. I wear my pants slimmer than most American men at about 7-7.5" across the hem, I recommend to most guys to go with an 8" ankle to be "safe".
While sunglasses are a great accessory to bring a look together, you've heard me say it time and time again; never wear your shades indoors. Use the time as you pass through the doorway of a building to gracefully pull them off your face while you make a smooth James Bond-esque entrance.
What I haven't written about, however, is where to place them once you take them off. Here is my personal swagger "grading scale" on where to keep your sunglasses:
The Tourist/Sports Strap: D-
On top of the head: D
In the shirt collar (can also be done with a collared shirt): C
Folded in the chest pocket (facing out): B
Folded in the chest pocket (facing in with one arm out): B+
Folded in the chest pocket of the suit jacket/blazer (facing in with one arm out): A
I often get asked the question "How can you tell, by looking at him, if a guy's suit is expensive or not?". My answer is usually "Who Cares? If he looks good, he looks good...it's not about price tags". BUT, there is one thing I always look for when I see at a stylish guy in a suit: working cuffs.
Most off-the-rack suit jackets/blazers have 3 or 4 buttons on the cuff (the end of the sleeve) which are only decorative - they do not serve any function. These buttons do not open or close since there is no hole for them to fasten through. They are made this way in order to allow the sleeves to be altered (made longer or shorter) according to the buyer. After all, not all men are created (physically) equal.
However, if a suit is custom made, either "bespoke" or "made-to-measure", since the sleeves have already been measured to the perfect length for the wearer, the cuffs will be what is called "working cuffs" or "surgeons cuffs"; where the buttons can be opened and closed. This may not seem like a big deal, but it does allow you to effectively roll up the sleeves of your jacket when the times (or your style) call for it - which is one of my favorite looks right now, especially on an unlined cotton jacket.
A working cuff:
Now since most guys aren't interested in paying $1,500+ for a custom-made suit, here is a little secret of mine... When you get your sleeves adjusted to your ideal length (which is MUCH shorter than most tailors will suggest - tell them you want at least 1/2" of shirt cuff to show) you can also get your cuffs opened (granted you are seeing a decent tailor) for a small fee ($20 - $25). You can also add or remove buttons if you wish. I usually wear 5 working buttons on my jackets because I'm 6'2" with long arms and because I love to be different. As a side note, I'm working on designing a jacket with working buttons all the way up to the elbow - should be interesting.
Now I really didn't want to share this part, but what the hell... You can also customize your jacket by choosing to insert a grosgrain ribbon of your choice into the sleeve gusset - a popular look right now with high-end designers like Thom Browne who often puts his signature Red/White/Blue stripe in his jackets. Typically you need about 12 inches of 7/8" ribbon, but talk this over with your tailor to make sure he can do it and you pick up the right size. Any good fabric store should have a ribbon section with a good variety of colors/stripes/patterns/etc.
The coolest part is that the choices for grosgrain ribbon are pretty much endless. You can try to play off of a color in your jacket, go with a complimentary color, or go with something wacky like smiley faces or the way-over-done skull and crossbones monogram.
Wearing your jacket sleeves rolled up is a great look, but leaving a button or two unfastened at the end of your jacket just to show that you paid alot for it, as many wall-street types do, comes off a little asshole-ish. With that said, I still do it sometimes :/
Thanks for reading. Yours in style, Style Blogger.
Hey all. I'm back. The trip was incredible. My boy Ryan and I had some great times, learned alot, did alot of thinking/self-reflection, and (the good news for ya'll) it inspired me to bring my blog to new heights. Thanks again to all of those who sent emails and comments while I was away, responses are on the way.
As my first post back, I'm going with one of the most popular features, the "Tip-of-the-Day".
Buying a quality timepeice can be a tricky investment, 1) Because it will (hopefully) last you many years and 2) Because it could potentially break the bank. Here's a little trick that can help you make the most out of your wristpeice.
You only need one watch. Keep it simple and classic (no deep-sea diving instruments or drag-race stopwatch features). Keep the face a neutral color (white or gray are your best bets). And keep the case a medium size (from 36mm - 40mm) - small enough to look classy under a shirt/suit cuff and large enough to look cool when wearing it casually with a pair of retro J's. As an example, here's a pic of the Montblanc Timewalker that I wear:
Now here's the secret. Invest in one of these:
It's a watchband replacement tool which allows you to easily (with a steady hand to avoid scratches) remove the wrist band from your watch and replace it with another, granted your watch has standard spring pins (most do, but look into it to make sure). It only costs $4.95 here, a small price to pay to turn one simple watch into an accessory with unlimited options.
Some people pay a watch repair man to change their band, but doing it yourself not only saves you time and money but it also allows you to change your band according to your outfit, making it a much more versatile (and unique) accessory. Here is a good video describing how to change your band:
The Watch Prince is a great place to shop for affordable bands, just make sure you know the width that you need (measured in mm, typically 18-22). Start with the essentials:
1. Black Alligator and Brown Alligator. The dressiest band, looks great with suits and ties...remember to match your skins (see Tip-of-the-Day May 4 2009).
2. Black Rubber. Wear it when the times call for something casual or when working out/running.
3. Striped Ribbon. Perfect for the summer, when things get a little more casual and brighter in color.
Once you have those basics you can start experimenting and putting your own spin on it (all with the same watch!). For example, check out my man Kenyatte Nelson, Esquire's Best Dressed Real Man 2008, playing with color and accessories:
Thanks for reading. Much more to come. Yours in style, Style Blogger
Ladies and gentlemen, the bow tie is back! Welcome back little friend, we`ve missed you.
Bow ties are showing up on the streets more and more, so if you`ve been thinking about trying one out, do it asap...it still hasn`t gone quite mainstream, so you still have time before it becomes "played out".
If you`re a beginner in the bow tie game, the trick is to keep it dark, with a simple pattern, and, most importantly, keep it in proportion. For example, if you are 6 foot 9 like my main man Ben "Bid Watch" N. then a super slim bow tie by the likes of Thom Browne or Band of Outsiders might make your head look too big. On the other hand, if you are 5 foot 5 like my man Chris "Dimple Daddy" C. then an oversized neckpiece might make you look smaller than you`d like.
As a matter of fact, proportion is key in everything, not just bow ties...I`m working on a post on the importance of proportions...coming soon.
Lastly, stay away from clip-ons. Learn to tie one yourself, there are plenty of helpful links on the internet. And in case you are wondering, no, not all of my friends have nicknames :)
This may seem like common sense to many men, but it is worth saying.
As a general rule, a man's metals should all match in color (watch face, belt buckle, shoe buckle, ring, sunglasses frame, etc). If one is silver, they should all be silver. You can always have another set in gold, but avoid mixing them.
Similarly, a man's leathers should also match in color family. Black with black, brown with brown. This includes watch strap, belt, shoes, briefcase, wallet, etc.
The weather in NYC this weekend was beautiful! A nice reminder that summer is on her way. It was also the perfect opportunity to break out one of my favorite accessories: sunglasses.
The right pair of sunglasses can bring an outfit to the next level and boost your level of cool. You just need the right pair. Here are some of my favorites:
The Ray Ban Aviator
Design: 9/10
Detail: 6/10
Cool Factor: 7/10
Notes: The ultimate classic pair of sunglasses, popularized by military men in WWII. They now come in countless sizes, shapes and colors. Stick with the most classic look: dark frames and gold or silver frames.
The Ray Ban Wayfarer
Design: 8/10
Detail: 7/10
Cool Factor: 8/10
Notes: The comeback kid. These classic shades, developed by Ray Ban in 1952, have developed a cult-like following and can be found on hipsters around the world. These also come in countless (and ridiculous) colorways. You could choose your own to be unique...but just know that hundreds of other fashionistos are also expressing their uniqueness with the same pair. With that said, stay classic, stay solid black or introduce yourself to the beauty that is tortoiseshell.
The Persol 0649
Design: 9/10
Detail: 8/10
Cool Factor: 9/10
Notes: My personal favorite. Steve McQueen, one of the most stylish men of all time, went everywhere with his tortoiseshell Persols, and for good reason.
Lastly, please note that the same pair of glasses can look completely different from one person to the next. It is important, therefore, to properly suit your face. There are plenty of guides on how to suit your face-shape on the internet, like this one. Also note, all sunglasses come in different sizes, shapes and slants. When shopping for sunglasses don't be afraid to try on several pairs, even in the same style.
The other night I wore a collar pin (I'm trying to bring it back!) and was shocked by how many people asked "what is that thingy?" or "why is that there?" or "what does that safety pin do"? It took a surprisingly long time before one of the older gents at the event came over and reasured me that such pins were once in style - "when I was a youngster", he said.
I'm a huge fan of wearing things that are unique and unexpected. To me it is an fundamental aspect of having a sense of "personal style" - not wearing the same old outfit that everybody else has on. On that note, the collar pin is exactly the type of accessory that brings character and personality to an outfit and makes it unique.
The good news is that they are coming back in style, so you can find them now at a number of men's stores. The bad news is that they are coming back in style, so soon they will no longer have the appeal of being cool and unique...much like graphic t-shirt brands like Ed Hardy or the "hipster" movement in general.
I picked up a couple new pins from WANT, they are the traditional over-sized "safety pin" style that punch a hole threw each side of your collar. It is not great for your shirt, but if you are going to have the hutspa to wear a collar pin, you might as well go all the way. For those who do not want to sacrifice their good dress shirts, however, there are clip-ons, screw-ons and other styles available at "old money stores" like Brooks Brothers and Paul Stuart. Also, as a recession-friendly alternative, you could go to your local supply store and pick up a pack of 2-inch safety pins. The metals wouldn't be as nice but the effect the same.
Some general guidelines to pulling it off:
1) Wear a silver pin with silver accesorries (watch, cufflinks...) and gold with gold
2) It doesn't work with your wide spread or cuttaway collars, and it looks best on club (round) collars - which are also coming back!
3. It looks better on a thicker oxford cloth, the type of cloth that is so thick and heavy that it needs to be tied down.
4. It works best, and makes the most sense, on cooler weather occasion...not in the sticky heat of summer when all you want to do is undo a button or two
Go now, express yourself, and be unique. Yours in style, Style Blogger.
While we are on the subject of rainwear...I am often asked about what footwear I wear in the rain. For men, finding suitable waterproof footwear is no easy task. In fact, it seems as if women have it much easier than men in this area; throw on a pair of colorful rubber ducky boots and you are instantly cute.
Luckily, there is a manly and stylish male counterpart to the ducky boot. I've heard them called "rubber shoe covers" or "rubber shoe protectors" but I like to call them "shoe condoms". They are essentially hollow rubber outsoles that slip over your nice (and expensive) dress shoes so that they don't get ruined in the rain, or snow for that matter.
I usually only see them on older men - who understand the importance of protecting ones good leather shoes. Every time I see them though, I say to myself, "there's a guy who knows what he's doing". I've seen them at Paul Stuart, LL Bean and Jack Spade but you can probably get them at almost any men's furnishings store. Keep in mind that you don't need designer condoms, here's one area where you can skimp...on SHOE condoms that is.
I'm a perfectionist, so leave it to me to find rules for everything, including wearing shoe rubbers. The only tip I have, if you really want to go the extra mile, is to wear dark brown rubbers with brown shoes, and black with black.
So until next time, remember, don't be a fool...wrap your tool.
A pocket square, so small and so simple, can completely transform an outfit. It is one of the few areas where even the most conservative man can have fun with his wardrobe.
A few guidelines:
- If you are bold (and experienced) try a flash of color with a unique pattern to compliment the rest of your outfit. It can play off another subtle color in your outfit, or it can just be a random pop of color
- If you are a beginner, or more conservative, or 007, go with the most classic: solid white cotton or linen folded square, not puffy. It never fails.
- Cotton and linen usually are easier to pull off than silk.
- Going puffy is adventurous, but can blow up in your face. When in doubt, fold it square and only show about a quarter inch (like your shirt cuffs under your jacket)
- White goes with everything
- If your shirt and tie are already loud (bold color, strong check or stripe...) then you probably don't want to wear a loud pocket square...you risk looking like you are trying to hard
- Never say never, but NEVER wear a matching tie and pocket square
- Lastly, when in a jam, be creative (see Tip-of-the-day March 11th)
It breaks my heart to see a traveling man dressed-to-the-nines carrying a Nike gymbag or (even worse) a backpack. There should be just as much thought and effort put into the bag you carry as the rest of your outfit. After all, it is part of your outfit. For the record, gymbags are for kids on their way to the soccer field and backpacks are for your 4th grade nephew - or your neighborhood drug dealer.
For a great, easy-carrying brand of men's bags and similar goods check out Filson - think heavy-duty construction with thick canvas and genuine bridle leather handles. Also, they are a century old hunting and camping goods company so your bag will look manly and won't have that man-purse or over-the-top-designer feel. My top pick for a quick getaway: Filson's large travel bag:
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