Reader Question: Inseam Unease

Reader:

My question is about suit pants and the proper length. Some magazines suggest having your pants a little shorter than normal and either going sockless or adding some splashes with some wild socks which I liked both looks. However if i just want some normal looking suit pants where should I get them hemmed to? The askmen.com website suggests half way between the ground and top of the sole of the shoe. I felt this was too long. Please let me know what you think. Thanks

SB:

Hey thanks for reading. Hmmm. "Normal" looking is not my forte (just kidding), I know what you mean. Although it's a cool look, depending on the occasion, the weather, the season, your shoes, etc. sometimes you just don't want your ankles showing.

People have been arguing back and forth about inseam lengths for ages, and everybody has their opinion (along with level of traditionalism). It really comes down to a matter of personal preference. Do what makes you feel comfortable.

As a general guideline I wear my pants slightly (1/2" or so) shorter in the summer. If you are really anal (like me) you can learn to hem your own pants and change the length by the season, but if you are looking for something "normal" that can be worn year round I'd say my new "standard" would hit at about 1/4" - 1/2" past the top of the back of your shoe, and try having them hemmed slightly at an angle so that the front is not breaking too much.

Hope this helps. SB

Reader Question(s)

Reader:

What's up man, 2 questions...

1. I'm feeling the whole tie bar look and just got a pretty sweet one off of amazon.com...The more I rock it, the more I am realizing that I could have gotten a much better one. Mine is a little lengthy and isn't the kind that snaps into place, thus sliding it over the tie is a little annoying. Can you link/recommend any better alternatives that wont break the bank?

2. When you get your suit pants/slacks altered do you have the leg taken in, and if so what width do you ask for, i.e. 8 inches, 9 inches?

SB:

Hey, thanks for reading!

1. There are thousands of tie bars out there, of all lengths and widths. Some have engravings, some are even "bejeweled". My advice is to keep it simple...as simple as possible. Go with a narrow silver tie bar, 2 inches long (ideally you want your bar to reach perfectly across the width of your tie, no shorter, no longer). The one I wear is by Tiffany & Co. It is 100% .925 silver which will last longer than I will, and will not go out of style any sooner. Find it here. J. Crew has a similar one which is a little cheaper. Some guys get it engraved with their last name or something inspirational, but in my opinion this looks tacky. If you feel the need to mark your territory do it on the underside where it is concealed but just as much "yours".

Photo via GQ.com

2. I usually try to buy pants that are already tapered down in the ankle, but if you find a pair that you really like and they are not slim enough through the leg, yes you can have them tapered by your tailor. Just make sure you go to a good tailor because it can be tricky to make the tapper look natural. I wear my pants slimmer than most American men at about 7-7.5" across the hem, I recommend to most guys to go with an 8" ankle to be "safe".

Hope this helps. Yours in style, SB.

Reader Question: Jean Hemline

Reader:

I was wondering if you could recommend a decent NYC tailor? I purchased the APC New Standard's but, I need to get them hemmed. Also, should jeans be hemmed like slacks in terms of whether they should break towards the bottom? Somewhat cropped? Or exact? Which would be more stylish in your opinion? I will wear these with sneakers most of the time. Thanks!

Style Blogger:

Hello, and thanks for reading! This is a great question, and one that I've been asked several times. It is a tricky one to answer, however. Jeans, since everybody owns at least one pair, are worn with a certain personal element; everybody has their own way to wear their jeans. A (very cute) young woman once told me "you can tell alot about a man by looking at how he wears his jeans". I thought it was by looking at his shoes..? Nevertheless, the issue of the hemline really comes down to personal preference.

Personally, I have two (very different looking) pairs of APC New Standards. The first are crisp and unwashed and the hemline is short (like trousers). I wear them with no break, no socks, loafers and a bit of ankle exposure. In my opinion that would be the most stylish way to wear them. On the other hand, my other, older, more broken-in pair of APC's are reserved for sneakers and casual shoes (mostly Chuck Taylors, maybe a boat shoe from time to time). This pair is also hemmed (because APCs come with an extended inseam), but they are longer and I wear them with a small roll at the bottom (maybe 1 inch or so deep). I think a rolled bottom looks best with sneakers.

If you are really adventurous (and the weather is warm)...beat the crap out of your APC's and wear them rolled up twice with a pair of broken in chucks...that is the most non-nonchalant but also chic way.

For a simple hem I bring my pants to the Korean woman at the dry cleaners around the corner. For more complex alterations I got to the experts at Michael Andrews Bespoke on the Lower East Side - they really do outstanding work and, as the name implies, they can make custom clothes that you can design and style yourself.

Thanks again for reading! Yours in style, Style Blogger.

Tip-of-the-Day: To cuff or not to cuff

I am often asked how I feel about cuffs on a pair of trousers. As usual, I have a general rule about this too.

It looks better, and seems more appropriate, to have cuffs on a pair of pants made of heavier fabric (flannel, tweed, herringbone, heavy wool, etc.) and worn in the winter. Not only does it add the likeness of wearing an extra 'layer' which is best suited for colder months, but it also adds weight to the bottom of your wool trousers causing them to drape better as they fall. To add a more stylish element, make your cuffs a little wider than your average Joe. Go with 1 3/4" or 2", a look that is popular among fashionistos rights now.

On the other hand, the warmer and more nonchalant months of summer call for a regular hem, a little shorter to show a hint of ankle. Summer clothing, besides being more casual in general, can be simpler and have less details. Therefore, light-weight wools, linens and definitely cottons should not be cuffed.

Hope this helps.

Yours in style, Style Blogger.