Tip-of-the-Day: Tie/Lapel Ratio

I've received many comments and questions regarding my recent post about super-skinny ties, and the correct ratio/sizing. Here is a simple rule that can easily help with your proportions:

Your tie, at it's widest point, should be about the same width as your lapels (or slightly slimmer, but never wider).

This will give you a good balance. And as we all know, life is all about good balance.

Yours in style,
SB

Reader Question: Too Small for Velvet?

Reader:

I was recently throwing together an idea for an outfit I had that involves a velvet blazer. When I showed friends and co-workers pictures, they all seemed to like the outfit. However, a couple people said the same thing, "You're too small for velvet." I'm 5'9" with a lean, rower's build. Could you explain why velvet may be a poor choice for me?

SB:

Thanks for reading. I'm really happy you asked this question!

I was just putting together a post with a message that goes something like this: don't let others decide what you wear! You should dress how you want to dress, in a manner that makes you feel good, and to express yourself. If I changed every time somebody commented on my outfit, I would have nothing to wear! With that said, it is also important to understand what works for you, and what simply doesn't (some people are haters, but some people are right when they say you look ridiculous).

Too small for velvet? Nahhh. Never heard of it. Besides, I hate "rules" like that. Keep in mind, though, that velvet does attract attention, so people will be looking. And when people glance, the first thing they'e going to notice is your most obvious physical attribute - body size, and in your case - your height.

It really depends on your level of confidence. Some guys are self conscious about their height or weight, and for those guys I recommend staying away from loud clothing such as bold pinstripes, bright colors and, yes, velvet jackets.

Hope this helps!

Yours in style,
SB

Tip-of-the-Day: De-Jacketing

A mentor of mine once told me "If you put your suit jacket on the back of a chair and lean back on it, your suit jacket will look as if you put it on the back of a chair and leaned back on it".

I often walk into restaurants or office buildings and see men in collared shirts sitting with their jackets all squashed behind them on their chairs. I never really understood this.

So today's tip is simple.

It is not necessary to remove your jacket if you are sitting at a restaurant, or in an office setting. Usually, I leave mine on all day. A man almost always looks better with his jacket on, and if the fit is right, it shouldn't be uncomfortable. (Also, keep in mind that a well tailored jacket can easily hide a not-so-well-tailored shirt).

However, if you really feel the need to take it off, most places where de-jacketing is appropriate should have a coat rack, coat check, or some kind of closet. So no more walking around in squashed wrinkled jackets.

Thanks for reading.

Yours in style,
SB

Reader Question: iTux

Reader:

I am helping a friend pick out a tux for his wedding, and was wondering what suggestions you would have for a tall, portly man looking for something classy but conservative.  Would a vest be better than a cumberbun to give a slimmer appearance?  What about straight tie vs. bow tie?  Shawl lapel vs. peak?  Thanks for the help!


SB:


Great question! If there is ever a time when a man wants to look his best, it's when he is wearing a tuxedo. For a "portly" man, dressing for your body type is all about drawing attention to your "assets" rather than your "liabilities". With that said, I would suggest a two-piece peak lapel tuxedo with a straight tie. 


The peak lapels will draw attention to the shoulders (thus taking attention away from the mid-section). Stay away from the vest, it will make your friend look too "stuffed" and it distorts the perfect black/white ratio that makes a classic tuxedo so sharp. Same goes for cumberbuns; they are outdated and will only draw eyes to the stomach. Also, consider a white cotton or linen pocket square folded straight and just peaking from the breast pocket, again,  to accentuate the chest.


Your friend should wear a long tie rather than a bow tie on his big day because the north-south line will offer a slimming effect. Along that same line (no pun intended) your friend should leave the belt at home and wear black suspenders. This will allow him to "float" his waist, rather than choosing to strap his pants above or below his belly. Also, a belt (like any accessories, lines, or stripes that run east-west) would only draw attention to his width.


Also, keep in mind that fit is even more important if you are a heavy guy. Some big guys think that a "roomy" suit will hide the fact that they are overweight. This is not true. A bad fit makes you look sloppy, not slimmer. Lastly, a clean shave and a fresh haircut can go a looong way to looking more put-together. 

photo by GQ 

(not a tuxedo, but a great example of a heavy-set guy cleaning up nicely)

Some other general tuxedo guidelines:

- 1 button is best

- The lapels should be 100% satin, and ideally your tie should be made from the same bolt of fabric

- Like a suit, double vented looks best (in my opinion)

- No collar pins, tie bars, brooches, lapel pins, stripes socks, chunky bracelets, oversized watches...or other "statement" accessories. Its a tuxedo, keep in simple, keep it classic

- No button-down collar shirts. Semi-spread is best

- French cuffs with small, simple cuff links

- Keep your jacket buttoned when standing

- Black socks, simple elegant black leather lace-up shoes, freshly shined (skip the cheap-looking patent leather shoes) 

- White shirt. Black tie. Period.

Thanks for reading, and congrats!


Yours in style,
SB

Tip-of-the-Day: The Refresh Button

Most guys have a navy blue blazer (if you don't, you should get one). It certainly is, and has been for a very long time, a staple to the everyman's wardrobe.

The problem is, you wear it all the time and you are getting tired of it, but you also don't want to get a new one because you can't justify spending money for something you already have. Here is a simple and cost effective solution to refreshen your blue blazer: change the buttons!

Take your blazer to your tailor and tell him/her that you want new buttons put on it (or if you're crafty, you can sew them on yourself, like I did yesterday). Assuming the buttons are currently black, you can change them to something classic (but a little bolder) like light brown marble, gold, or silver. Or you can throw caution to the wind and go with something a little more in-your-face like a guy I met the other night who had red plastic buttons on his jacket (which looked so cool...I'm peeved I forgot my camera).

So go ahead, click the refresh button.

Yours in style,
SB

Reader Question: Human Drop

Reader: 

My question is about sizing a suit properly.  I am about 6 feet tall and weigh about 185-190 pounds and I just finished playing college football.  I am not really muscular but in order to get the proper fit in the chest I have to go with a suit with pants that are much too big in the waist.  I understand I need to get the suit altered, but they can only take-in the waist so much right?


Thanks SB!

SB:

Hey. Thanks for reading.

Like alot of my friends, you have an athletic build which makes it hard to fit suits. Unfortunately for guys like you, the standard suit comes with a 6 or 7 inch "drop", meaning the waist measurement of the pants is 6 or 7 inches smaller than the chest measurement of the jacket (i.e. suit size 40, waist size 33 or 34). Since we are all human and rarely fit this standard mold, this makes it difficult for many guys to buy suits off-the-rack. 

Unless you are ready to make the jump to custom, you need to buy suit separates rather than suits. Think of it as a matching jacket and pants sold separately of which you can choose any size. Get the jacket in whatever size fits you in the shoulders and chest, then you can easily have the sides taken-in and the sleeves lengthened/shortened at your local tailoring shop (or have it done at the store when you buy the jacket). Get the pants in whatever size fits your waist best, the less taking-in/letting-out the better.

Hope this helps,
SB

Tip-of-the-day: These pockets are made for using...

Your blazer/suit jacket/sport coat, or whatever you want to call it, has pockets. These are not decorations. Carefully cut them open (since they are usually sewn shut on a new jacket) and use them!

Remember that clothing, from its origin, was designed for utility. Not only does it cover your nudy parts, but it also keeps you warm, comfortable and holds your everyday nick-nacks. With that said, there is something classy and stylish about a man who knows how to "use" his clothes the way they were designed to be "used". Think of it this way; pants are meant to fit at the waist, which explains why your young hipster cousin looks foolish (and looks like he is trying way to hard to be rebelliously "cool") when he sags his pants down below his ass.

On one of my (and probably also your) favorite street style bogs, The Sartorialist, photographer Scott Schuman frequently shoots his male subjects with their hands in their jacket pockets. See below.

Photo by Scott Schuman

So whether you use them to store your camera or your keys, or just to keep your hands warm as the temperature creeps lower, open up the pockets and get the most out of your jacket.

Yours in style, SB.

Reader Question: Wedding Planning

Reader:

Hello Dan,

How've you been? Congrats on the Esquire award and on the blog!

My question is: do you think it is acceptable to dress like this [below] (like Bradley Cooper, on the left, I mean) for a wedding at night? It's now spring time here in Brazil so I thought of maybe giving the style a chance and try something 'lighter' as opposed to a black suit+white shirt+skinny tie combo, which i find really cool, but we know will be every other guy's choice.

Thanks!

SB:

Hey. I'm great! Thanks.

I understand why you'd want to look like Bradley Cooper, but this photograph is from a black tie event (i.e. tuxedo time). A wedding is not time for a tux for those attending as guests. I wouldn't wear black to a wedding either, it's a little too serious (and has a funeral vibe which can kinda send the wrong message). A wedding is a celebration, not time for mourning (regardless of how great you and your friend's bachelor days were).

Since the wedding is at night, you should go with something on the darker side. Alot of guys will be wearing black and navy, so if you want to stand-out from the crowd a little, go with a medium gray or even brown. Since it is spring down there, I would keep the shirt crispy white, leave the tie and socks at home, and throw on your most comfortable dance-friendly lace-ups. Have fun!

For the record, I don't agree with Coopers' going tie-less with a tux, or the black shirt for that matter...when wearing a tux you should be at your best and keep it simple, don't mess with it. Fun fact: the traditional reason why a tux is so "standard" (simple, no frills, black and white) is so that men can blend-in and let their women shine brightly in their dresses. But that's neither here nor there, and subject for a separate post.

Hope this helps! Yours in style, SB

Tip-of-the-Day: Wear your clothes, Don't let your clothes wear you

There is a certain nonchalance and comfort level necessary in order for a man to look his best. You should act comfortable in your clothing, and not worry if your tie is not perfectly straight, or your shirt is not perfectly tucked. A confident man gets dressed once - before he leaves - and doesn't fret about constantly fixing his look.

Some men (and I can think of one of my friends in particular), especially when "dress up", constantly pull at their clothes and try to fix the natural imperfections of their look (shirt coming slightly untucked, tie flailing with movement, hair a little "messed up", etc). This makes a man look insecure and overly concerned with his appearance.

The "best dressed" men are usually those who are most confident. I love seeing a guy in a slim tailored suit running or doing something active...after all, those are just his clothes, they don't stop him from living his life. Wear a suit like you wear a t-shirt...don't worry about your clothes...they're just clothes...act natural.

This is one of the appeals of Ari Gold from Entourage - he is always well dressed, but above that, he is confident in his look - often running, rushing, and doing big arm gestures, etc. The imperfections add to his appeal.

If you looked good when you left the house, you still look good. If you must, you can check yourself out in the mirror when you go to the bathroom and make sure you are still in order...other than that, go out and act natural.

Yours in style, Style Blogger.

The Guys Who Are Making Suits Cool Again

Young people are wanting to wear suits more and more. Men are wearing suits to "business casual" events, out to night clubs, and even with sneakers and t-shirts on their own time.

90's businesses across the board, lead by Google and the other "techies", adopted a (very) casual dress code where suits were no longer necessary. In my opinion, this overly casual movement created an old-world nostalgia for the days when guys dressed like men and wore suits, and took care of business while "dressed for success".

In combination with that, some of the coolest cats in the media (from athletes, to actors, to musicians) are rocking suits on a regular basis...and we all know the fashion pull that celebrities have.

Here are some of the top players who are making suits cool again:

Justin Timberlake

Kanye West

Jay-Z

Ari Gold

Mad Men

The Cast of the Ocean's Movies

David Beckham

P. Diddy

Remember the days when hip-hop artists dressed like this:

(If you are under the age of 15...Yes, that is P. Diddy, back when he was Puff Daddy)

I'd say it's been an improvement.

Reader Question: Polo Shirt with a Suit

Reader:

Hey man!

I've just gotta let it be said: you have a great blog and impeccable style. I caught your profile on Esquire's Best-Dressed Real Man (back when I was competing myself) and found my way to your blog- and have since bookmarked and checked it pretty regularly. Just thought I'd let you know. Terrific style, man, really impressive.

Small question: Living in the south (Texas to be precise) in a bigger city we run into some fashion faux-pas regarding suits- not everyone wheres them to borderline formal events, instead wearing jeans and a button-down- sometimes a blazer. (no cowboy hats and boots, though, that's just a stereotype) If this is going on anyway, in the summer at least, is it too much to where a suit but, kind of the reverse of the button-down with jeans, where a short-sleeve lacoste polo instead? No tie, no dress shirt, but a polo with a suit?

Thanks and fingers-crossed on you winning the contest

Style Blogger:

Hey, thanks for reading and great question!

Personally, I love the suit & polo look (definitely more than the oh-so-common button down with jeans), but only when it is done correctly, which can be tricky. The trick is to know that the outfit overall is casual, so the rest of the look should follow suit (no pun intended).

Here are some guidelines:

- This look looks best when the suit is slim - especially in the shoulder, through the arm and through the leg. The suit also looks better in this case when it has slim lapels...and definitely stay away from peaked lapels. It should also have a deep "V" shape, which is most easily achieved with a 2 or 1 button suit.

- If you have a lightweight cotton suit (preferably unlined or half-lined), it would work best because of its casual and "summery" nature

- The polo should be a solid color, and the color should bounce off the suit, not clash (for example, don't wear a royal blue polo with a navy blue suit...try crisp white or bright yellow instead...after all, it is summer).

- Leave at least 2 buttons on the polo undone

- Your shoes should be casual. Loafers are great...and if you can pull it off slip on a pair of sneakers for a very chic look (see picture below)

- Leave the dressy leather belt at home...go beltless, or wear a casual one (ribbon or cotton-weaved are great)

- Don't tuck the polo in...and make sure it is the right length (see Tip-of-the-Day, April 25th)

- If you have working cuffs and can roll your sleeves up, this is your chance, do it!

- Lastly, if its sunny, slip on a pair of shades...they're the best accessory to finish off a summer look (see Tip-of-the-Day, April 21st)

Hope this helps brother!

Yours in style, Style Blogger

MJ vs. Lebron

Winner: Lebron (hands down, no contest)

Runner up: MJ

On the court, it's not so easy...

Stand Out

In one of his songs, Kanye West says, "How am I supposed to stand out when everybody gets dressed up?". Well here's how: where a jacket and tie with shorts.

This is one of my favorite looks. If you have the grapefruits to pull it off, do it! I've only seen one other person (other than myself) do it, and it looked awesome on him! (Wish I had my camera).

The trick is to not be shy about it. Wear a slim tailored blazer, shirt, tie, dress shoes, as usual...just trade the pants in for a pair of shorts (and leave the socks in the drawer, of course). You also need the right pair of shorts. This look doesn't work with cargo shorts or basketball shorts. The shorts should be similar to the khakis or trousers you would wear with the same outfit; slim through the leg, neutral colored, and pressed. They should hit about an inch above the knee.

Confidence mandatory.

Reader Question: Custom Clothing

Reader:

Hey,

I found your blog through the esquire best dressed men competition. First, I will say I dig your style.

Secondly, you mention custom suits "designed by yours truly." Are you talking about suits that were custom made by a tailor: a la bespoke? Or are you actually designing (drawing the design and patterns etc.) and tailoring the suits yourself?

thanks...and keep dressing sharp

Style Blogger:

Thanks for reading! Did you vote for me? :)

The custom clothing pictured on my profile is all from Michael Andrews Bespoke. I've been to a few custom clothiers in NYC, but MAB is by far the best that I've experienced. Their shop in the Lower East Side is awesome. Michael and his employees are great, very friendly and helpful. Best of all, you can completely customize your clothing and design it from scratch...and, as you can see, their product is awesome (and so is their price point, comparatively).

Check out their website by clicking here: MAB.

Thanks again for reading...and feel free to keep voting (up to 30 times a day!).

Yours in style, Style Blogger.

Tip-of-the-Day: The "sometimes, always, never" rule, updated

When it comes to buttons on a suit, less is more in my opinion - in fact, my bespoke suits and the ones that I design are mostly one-button. When wearing the more popular three-button style, however, it is important to know how to button it.

The general guideline is "sometimes, always, never". Meaning, sometimes fasten the top button, always fasten the middle button, and never fasten the bottom button.

My personal rule, however, is "never, always, never". Only fasten the middle button. And keep it fastened at all times, unless sitting down. Like Tom Ford (the best menswear designer in the world, in my opinion), I agree that men look better with their jackets closed (more streamlined, more "put together", more tailored, etc).

As an interesting side-note, Mr. Ford has been known to go around buttoning mens jackets at parties, as if he were doing them a favor. After all, most modern high-end suits have a rollover lapel, which basically hides the top button from being seen, and makes it awkward to button. Therefore, just leave that top one alone.

Yours in style, Style Blogger

Reader Question: finding a better fit (part deux)

Reader:

I would love to hear some tips of how I can judge whether a suit is a good fit or not. I am working on a pretty tight budget, thus the stores in which I am shopping at do not have the best tailors. Thanks!

Style Blogger:

Hello, thanks for reading. I am currently working on a post regarding buying suits, a sort of 'how to' guide to buying the right suit. But for now, check out this great guide by GQ, with pictures, explanations, and different price points. Hope that helps! Yours in style, Style Blogger.

Reader Question: finding a better fit

Reader:

Love the blog, your insight is spectacular. I currently am suffering from this baggy suit disease. The pants fit fine, but the jacket is ginormous. It is a standard black suit, so would you recommend buying a sport coat separately and keep the pants?

Style Blogger:

Hello reader, thanks for your question. I understand your problem and have come across this issue before. I don't know your proportions, but I can assume that a standard jacket-pant suit ratio does not work for you. In this case I would recommend buying 'separates' rather than a suit - basically its a jacket and matching pants that you purchase separately, in whatever size you need. As far as buying a new jacket to go with the pants you already own...I wouldn't recommend it. There are a thousand different shades and hues and shines to wool that make it very hard to find a perfect match. Instead, keep the pants you already have, you can still wear them as slacks...but buy new suit that match correctly in color. Any department store like macys would work. Thanks again for reading, good luck! Yours in style, Style Blogger.

It's all about fit

It always blows me away when I walk into a high-end store (lets say Louis Vuitton for example) and I see a guy spending thousands of dollars on a blazer or a couple of dress shirts and when I look at him he does not look well-dressed at all. Although his clothes may look expensive (which is actually only noticeable to those who care enough to notice things like hand finished button holes, working cuffs, high armholes, etc.) the man himself does not look stylish or suave in any way.

Ninety five percent of the time (in America at least) the reason that this guy at the cash register does not look like a million bucks (or at least the thousands that he spent) is because his clothes are ill-fitted, more specifically, too big. His jacket is one or two sizes too big, he is wearing a 42 Long instead of a 40 Regular and his sleeves are eating his hands.

Every time I see this I am tempted to bring the guy to a store like H&M and buy him a $150 suit in the correct size, maybe bring it to a tailor for minor adjustments, and ultimately show him not only how much money he can save but also how much better he can look in his clothing, regardless of the label or the price tag.

Check out the before and after pics below...its all about fit.

Your in style, Style Blogger.