Tip-of-the-Day: A note on shin cleavage

There are certain little things, let's call them "pet peeves" for lack of a better expression, that can really ruin an outfit for me. One of them is the length of a guy's socks.

No matter how great a man's outfit is, if he crosses his legs and suddenly you can see a small area of pale, hairy leg between the top of his sock and the hem of his pants...attention is immediately drawn to it and it ruins his look. Yes, I am anal about details like this.

As a solution, simply make sure you buy socks that are long enough to cover the gap, and pull them up all the way. Remember, the shorter your pants, the higher they will pull when you sit.

I don't necessarily recommend this, but as a more extreme solution for guys who insist on crossing their legs but have extra-skinny ankles and thus have a problem with schlubby falling socks...you could try sock garters. If pulled-off (and up) correctly, I could imagine it being a really cool "retro" accessory with the right outfit.  After all, with lower east side hipsters bringing back old-school classics like black plastic frames, timex watches, doc marten boots and polaroid cameras...perhaps these are the next "cool" thing.

    

Yours in style,

SB

Reader Questions: Boat Shoes + Socks?

Reader:

I was wondering how you felt about wearing some sort of graphic socks with boat shoes. I know it's a stretch, but I do wear straight slim or skinny jeans (that aren't too tight) so a little bit of my foot shows.

SB:

You know how some car commercials have a caption that says something like "Proffessional driver on a closed course. Do not attempt". Well, this is kinda like that.

Normally, socks with boat shoes - hell no. But, like I always say, rules are meant to be broken, and the most stylish people break them regularly. I do have a couple guidelines that could help you succeed:

- Never with shorts
- Not in the middle of winter (even with socks, boat shoes are three-season)

- Keep your pant leg opening slim. Like 7.5" across slim.

- Keep your inseam short. Like hardly touching the back of your shoe, hemmed at an angle so the front hits even higher, short. (or roll your pants/jeans)

- Wear striped socks, not argyle, check, or polka dot

- Wear the thicker, ribbed socks 

- Keep the majority of the stripes muted, and consistent with the tone of your pants. Maybe one thin colorful stripe, but you don't want them to be too loud.

 For Example, look for something like this:

Socks by Smart Turnout

Here is a rare picture of this look very well executed:

Photo by GQ

Thanks for reading,

SB

The $482 Difference

 

I often get questions about quality and price differences in footwear. Here is a great breakdown by Parson's shoe design professor Howard Davis. Interesting...

-SB

Reader Question: Hard Knock Loafs

Reader:

I have had a problem of wearing through the soles of shoes quickly and it is really frustrating. I had a pair of black hugo boss shoes that only lasted 6 months before i put a hole through the sole. I also own a pair of Teran shoes (a brand from buenos aires) and they are beautiful shoes but I have the same problem. The only pair that seems to hold up are my Ferragamos, but they were $300 and I would rather not spend that much if I dont have to. Please recommend some good shoes for me.

SB:

Wow, sounds like you are pretty rough on your shoes! I would recommend rubber soled shoes, with thicker bottoms, rather than slim leather soled shoes (a la Hugo Boss shoes). Rubber soles do not wear down as easily, and as an added bonus they are usually more comfortable for walking.

Thicker Rubber Sole:

Shoes by J. Crew

However, if you are like me and would rather wear slimmer, sleeker, leather soled shoes, as a second option I would recommend buying a quality (preferably hand-made) leather soled shoe. Although it will cost you a little more (like your Ferragamo's) the uppers will virtually last you a lifetime, and when the soles wear down, you can take them to your local shoe repair guy to have them re-soled at a fraction of the price of a new pair.

Thinner Leather Sole:

Shoes by Paul Smith

In addition, consider getting protective "taps" (plastic, not metal tap-dancing "clickers") on the toes and heels of your shoes. You can get this done for about $5 and it can dramatically delay the death of your shoes (assuming the toes and heels are taking the brunt of the damage...which for most guys is the case)

Another piece of advice is to have a few pairs in your rotation. Wearing the same pair everyday is asking for them to get beat-up in a hurry. Lastly, perhaps try not to drag your feet. More friction against the sidewalk = more wear to your bottoms.

Hope this helps!

Thanks for reading,
SB

SB Endorses: The Grown Man's Rubber Duckie

It's almost boot season, a stylish guy's favorite time of year.

I'm a big fan of the classic "Bean Boots" (colloquially called "Duckie Boots") by L.L. Bean:

I wore 'em with a suit the other day, and when people smiled at me, I just smiled back :)  As a safer option, though, wear them casually. Example:

Public Service Announcement:

No, I am not being paid by LL. Bean. Everything on my blog is legit and not "clouded" by contracts or ad deals. Even though advertisers are starting to show interest, I want my readers to know that I am not going to "sell-out" and push products that I don't personally wear or authentically stand by.

Yours in style,
SB

Reader Question: Double Monk

Reader:

Hey Dan,
So I saw this latest post on The Sartorialist with Lino in a pair of double monk strap shoes:

I happened to find a nice pair by Allen Edmonds (link below), but what do you personally think of these shoes? (where should they be worn, color, etc.):

 PS: What are you thoughts on Allen Edmonds?
Thanks, man, hope all is well. (From a SEAS '08 alum)


SB:

Hey, thanks for the Columbia love!

I love double monkstrap shoes, they are certainly head-turners (especially when done with such Italian panache). However, I find it difficult to find a pair that has a sleek design and a nicely shaped toe, many look boxy and more "old school academic" than "bad ass stylish motherf-er" (as I like mine to look, hah). I'd say these Alan Edmonds fall in the first category more than the second.

Allan Edmonds is one of only two brands still making shoes in the US (the other being Alden), and their history is strongly woven into the national landscape since they provided shoes for the Army and Navy during WWII. They are excellently crafted shoes that will certainly outwear many other brands. With that said, though, there is something about their design that always struck me as suitable for older gentlemen who are not trying to make too much of a style statement.

Since you graduated in '08, my suggestion would be to find something slighlty more sleek. I would start with the Italian fashion houses. Take a look at the two pairs below by Prada and Gucci, respectively. It's kind of hard to explain, but see how their shape just looks more "style-aggressive" (the soles are not as bulky, the toes are sharply rounded, the monk straps are slimmer and slightly angled). These small details might not seem like a big deal, but it makes all the difference.

 

The price will be comparable to slightly more expensive than the A Edmonds, but remember the golden rule of buying footwear. Not to mention, if you get the right pair, you can wear them dressy, wear them casually...wear them as much as you f-ing want.

Thanks for reading,
SB

Wool sock weather!

It's about that time. Break out the wool socks like my man BL!

Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

Reader Question: Gym Attire

Reader:
 
Hey Dan! I absolutely LOVE the blog (and I'm a woman!). Kinda wish you would include more pictures of yourself...I'm sure I'm not the only one curious as to what the "best dressed real man in America" is wearing =) Just a thought. Anyway, my question is about stylish/appropriate gym attire. My bf is never sure what to wear to workout and usually goes in his old frumpy college t-shirt. Any suggestions?

SB:

Hey! Thanks for reading. It's actually surprising how many messages I get from women who read my blog, so don't feel alone :) I'm glad you asked the gym attire question, its a popular one, and one that hits close to home. When I was an athlete in high school and college I literally lifted weights in rags and in a gym that (purposely) resembled a dungeon. It was all about toughness, grittiness and grunting. But now that I'm a grown man, no longer an athlete, and inevitably held to a standard after winning the said award, I've had to restructure my workout wardrobe.

First and foremost your gym attire needs to be functional. It should be comfortable, allow you to do full range of motion, and not get in the way of whatever exercise you are doing. Secondly, it is important, as when getting dressed for any occasion, to know and understand your body. If you sweat excessively wear darker colors to hide your wet patches and avoid leaving shiny streaks on the weight machines by keeping the cut-off shirts at home. Thirdly, keep in mind the movements you'll be making and dress accordingly; nobody wants to see a man's hairy lower back or sweaty upper thighs. Oh, and fourthly, no "wife-beater" tank-tops - no matter how "jacked" you are.

I usually wear workout specific "dry fit" polyester shirts because they contour the body without being sprinter-tight and they have "cooling" technology which (allegedly) breathes better than cotton and pushes sweat to the surface to ease evaporation and keep you dry and cool. With that I usually wear basketball shorts and running shoes with ankle socks, and an ipod clipped to the front of my shorts with the headphone wire running inside my shirt to keep it out of the way.

Hope this helps! -SB

 

And never forget:

My "Ten Essentials"

Per some of your requests, I will host my own "Ten Essentials", a popular feature seen on what used to be men.style.com (r.i.p.) where designers, celebrities, and other fashion-forward individuals list the "10 things they can't go without". So here's my crack at it...

1. Blackberry 8900

With my blackberry in hand not only can I check my email and surf the web, but I can keep in touch with friends in Canada for free, take and send street-style pictures, and blog remotely.

2. Montblanc Timewalker

I wear this watch everyday. It's case is the perfect size to go from dressy to casual (with a quick band change) and I love the neutral no-frills face. It also has sentimental value to me; at 19 years old it was the first time my self-contained business allowed me to spend over $1000 on something (yes, I've been buying my own clothes since the beginning of highschool)

3. Vintage Levis Denim Jacket

This is the perfect lightweight jacket. I wear it with everything from a t-shirt and chuck taylors to a dress shirt and bow tie. The best part, it gets better with time and only cost me $35 at a vintage clothing store.

4. Unlimited NYC Metro Card

I ride the subway. Everywhere. In NYC public transportation is often faster than cabbing-it and you are sure to come across some unique people and great street style on the train. Call me green (and economical).

5. Red Tod's Car Shoes

I love footwear, especially the in-your-face "my kicks are fresh" type of footwear (maybe it's from my roots as a basketball player/hip-hop fanatic). Nevertheless, these are one of my favorite pairs, and whenever I wear them women literally stop me in the street to compliment them, so they pad the ego as much as the outfit :)

6. APC New Standard Jeans

I've written about these in the past. The best all-purpose jeans that money can buy. Need I say more?

7. Basketball

If it wasn't for the game of basketball I probably wouldn't have gone to college, I wouldn't live in NYC, and I certainly wouldn't be writing this blog. The game has been the single most important influence in my life, and to this day I try to play 3-4 times a week to stay in shape and satisfy my passion for the game.

8. Filson Duffle Bag

The perfect bag. Utilitarian enough to look rugged and "manly" and clean enough in design to be carried with any outfit including my finest suit. Whether I'm heading to the gym or traveling for the weekend, I just "throw it in the bag".

9. Michael Andrews Bespoke

Every stylish man needs a good tailor. For me it is certainly an "essential". I take all my alterations and custom clothing orders to the experts at MAB.

10. Persol 649

Shades are my favorite accessory, and I usually go with these tortoiseshell frames made popular by Steve McQueen to complete my look.

Yours in style, SB.

Tip-of-the-Day: Cedar Stinkproofers

I thought this was a given, but you need to put shoe trees in your leather shoes! All of them. Every time you come home and take them off to pass out on the couch.

Get a decent pair of shoe trees made out of cedar wood. You can pick them up at just about any department or housing store and not only do they add years of life to your shoes by holding their form to avoid creasing, but the cedar wood also absorbs moisture and odor.

So before you head out for the night on the sockless bandwaggon, make sure you ain't bringing the funk to the party.

Go out, and be fresh. -SB

"New Shoes"...

If you're sitting in a crowded subway car and you don't get up to let a pregnant woman sit, please stop reading my blog. Being a gentleman is stylish. Acting like you are the sh-t is not cool. Let's grow up and try walking in someone else's shoes for once.

Tip-of-the-Day: Hybrid Car = Good...Hybrid Shoes = Bad

There are dress shoes, and there are sneakers. The two should not be combined. Very easy tip for today...stay away from any footwear that can be described as a "hybrid" or "cross" between a dress shoe and a sneaker.

Examples to avoid:

Yours in style, SB

Reader Question: Casual Summer Shoe

Reader:

First off I think you have great style and give you the utmost respect for that.

Second... I wanted to know your opinion on what a good casual summer shoe would be. I wear a range of traditional boat shoes, drivers, and I just ordered a pair of white (really off white) Vans authentic canvas sneakers for summer. I hope they will work. Love Chucks and Vans but open to any opinion. What do you think?

Style Blogger:

Sounds like you have a decent spread there between boat shoes, drivers, chucks and vans. I'd say add a classic-looking loafer in a dark brown/burgandy. Something that is versatile enough to go from casual to dressy and everywhere in between. Check out the timeless Bass "Dover", found here. It is your safest option for most occasions.

But as you know by now, I'm not really about "playing it safe". My favorite shoes for summer are suede driver shoes; the brighter the color the better. The downside (which is also kinda the upside) is that they are really hard to find, especially at a reasonable price.

The best ones are made by Tod's and The Original Car Shoe (owned by prada), both of which run around $400 a pair. The Original Car shoe store, found only in Milan and Florence, is one of the coolest stores around simply because they have their signature shoe in basically every color...their wall of shoes looks like the nearby gelato shop selection with colors like Pineapple yellow and Mango orange .

At a more reasonable price ($105), there are these by new shoemaker Born. The red ones are hot, I just wish the laces and stitching were red also.

However, if you are like JD and Jay-Z in the summer of '98 and "Money Ain't a Thang", then here are my two favorite shoes this summer:

1. The Original Car Shoe in Aligator Skin (~$1,800.00):

2. The Mr. Hudson boat shoe/sneaker designed by Kanye West and Marc Jacobs for Louis Vuitton (~$900.00):

Hope this helps. Yours in style, Style Blogger.

Don't put your foot in your mouth, but let your kicks do the talking

I am often asked if it is possible for a man to pull-off sneakers (we're talking collectibles, like retro Jordans or limited edition Nike Dunks, for example) and look stylish - and not childish. The answer is yes, although it can be tricky.

While I rarely wear sneaks myself anymore, I used to have an extensive collection - from limited edition Air Force Ones to every Jordan from I to XX. So needless to say, I still have a certain fondness and nostalgia for a nice pair of kicks, especially if they are rare (after all, I'm all about being unique and original). Luckily, two of my long-time friends have perfected the art of grown-man-kickery.

The best way to do it, in my opinion, is to let the kicks do all the talking. That is, if your kicks are loud, don't put them in a shouting match with the rest of your outfit. Tame your outfit down, keep it simple, neutral, and (of course) well fitted. A simple, neutral-colored button-up or polo with khakis or plain jeans will have you looking like a grown man while also leaving a blank canvas for your kicks to jump off of.

Most men try to experiment with a dash of loud color in their outfits at some point or another (usually ties or pocket squares), this is just another (more casual) way to do it. Some minimal matching can slide, but the last thing you want to do is wear a bright pair of sneakers with a matching outfit (t shirt, hat, etc)...nobody will take you seriously, especially women.

Notice the picture below...if you look at it and put your hand over their feet to cover their shoes, they look like normal (although good looking and Italian) average Joes, just like everyone else. Go ahead, try it! Once you removed your hand, however, and look at their entire outfit, you start to get the sense that these two cats are unique, creative, original, cool, etc... They let their kicks do the talking...because their kicks have alot to say.

Stay original. Yours in style, Style Blogger.

Tip-of-the-Day: Metals to Metals, Hides to Hides

This may seem like common sense to many men, but it is worth saying.

As a general rule, a man's metals should all match in color (watch face, belt buckle, shoe buckle, ring, sunglasses frame, etc). If one is silver, they should all be silver. You can always have another set in gold, but avoid mixing them.

Similarly, a man's leathers should also match in color family. Black with black, brown with brown. This includes watch strap, belt, shoes, briefcase, wallet, etc.

Yours in style, Style Blogger.

Reader Question: Casual Summer Shoes

Reader:

First off I think you have great style and give you the utmost respect for that.

Second... I wanted to know your opinion on what a good casual summer shoe would be. I wear a range of traditional boat shoes, drivers, and I just ordered a pair of white (really off white) Vans authentic canvas sneakers for summer. I hope they will work. Love Chucks and Vans but open to any opinion. What do you think?

Thanks

Style Blogger:

Thanks for reading, and thanks for the support! As far as casual summer shoes...I guess it depends on your level of "casual". For the most casual times, I go with sneakers (vans, chuck t's, jack purcells, common projects...keeping them classic and neutral colored).

For slightly-less-casual occasions I often go with boat shoes - a very popular option for men right now. They have a similar look to loafers, but have an ease about them. Because I like well-made shoes, my favorite boat shoes are these (with black soles) from Rogues Gallery - hand-made in Maine and all leather - they are a little pricey though. I'm not sure about your budget, but here is a similarly made pair by Quoddy Trail at a slightly better price point - they are also all leather, hand-made in USA.

Lastly, the least casual option - but my go-to - is a classic loafer, sockless of course in the summer. I have a collection and I like to switch them up...but there is nothing more classic than the good 'ol Bass Weejun, which is also a great bang for your buck. Not only do they get better with age and last forever, but they are also very versatile and can cross the lines of casualness.

Hope this helps!

Yours in style, Style Blogger.

Tip-of-the-Day: Quality over Quantity

A $180 pair of shoes will last you twice as long as a $90 pair of shoes, but a $360 pair of shoes will last you a lifetime.

Indeed, I am a huge believer in buying quality over quantity, especially with shoes. You can only wear one pair at a time, so who cares if you have 35 other pairs of cheap shoes sitting in your closet? Here is a great quote from Ivy-Style's interview with Bruce "Almighty" Boyer, a former fashion editor for GQ and Esquire magazines:
"It’s better to have one good pair of shoes than a half dozen cheap ones, because the cheap ones look cheap even when they’re new, but the new ones look good even when they’re old. Quality by definition is the best you can get for your money. If you buy a pair of shoes for $500 and they last you 10 years, that’s $50 per year. If you buy a pair for $100 and they last you six months, which was the more expensive? I think the Old Money WASP guys were just cheap, so they always bought the best".

As a side note, maybe Mr. Boyer could answer this question...why do they make some pairs of shoes that, according to the formula above, could last almost 4 lifetimes? Maybe so that great-grandsons can wear them?

Thanks for reading. Yours in style, Style Blogger

Tip-of-the-day: "I can't stand the rain"

I've received alot of positive feedback about the recent post on "shoe rubbers", and it rained again today in NYC, so let the good times roll... Today's tip is again about footwear for rainy days, but for casual wardrobe.

As mentioned before, finding the right footwear for rainy days can be difficult. Most guys opt for sneakers, Timberland-like boots, or boat shoes...none of which are both practical and stylish. I recommend the new "boat boots" that some designers have been coming out with recently. They are essentially high-top boat shoes that are waterproof, and perfect for casual outfits.

Pictured below are versions by Band of Outsiders x Sperry and Rogues Gallery.

Yours in style, Style Blogger.

Tip-of-the-day: Don't forget your rubber

While we are on the subject of rainwear...I am often asked about what footwear I wear in the rain. For men, finding suitable waterproof footwear is no easy task. In fact, it seems as if women have it much easier than men in this area; throw on a pair of colorful rubber ducky boots and you are instantly cute.

Luckily, there is a manly and stylish male counterpart to the ducky boot. I've heard them called "rubber shoe covers" or "rubber shoe protectors" but I like to call them "shoe condoms". They are essentially hollow rubber outsoles that slip over your nice (and expensive) dress shoes so that they don't get ruined in the rain, or snow for that matter.

I usually only see them on older men - who understand the importance of protecting ones good leather shoes. Every time I see them though, I say to myself, "there's a guy who knows what he's doing". I've seen them at Paul Stuart, LL Bean and Jack Spade but you can probably get them at almost any men's furnishings store. Keep in mind that you don't need designer condoms, here's one area where you can skimp...on SHOE condoms that is.

I'm a perfectionist, so leave it to me to find rules for everything, including wearing shoe rubbers. The only tip I have, if you really want to go the extra mile, is to wear dark brown rubbers with brown shoes, and black with black.

So until next time, remember, don't be a fool...wrap your tool.

Yours in style, Style Blogger.