Tip-of-the-Day: A note on shin cleavage

There are certain little things, let's call them "pet peeves" for lack of a better expression, that can really ruin an outfit for me. One of them is the length of a guy's socks.

No matter how great a man's outfit is, if he crosses his legs and suddenly you can see a small area of pale, hairy leg between the top of his sock and the hem of his pants...attention is immediately drawn to it and it ruins his look. Yes, I am anal about details like this.

As a solution, simply make sure you buy socks that are long enough to cover the gap, and pull them up all the way. Remember, the shorter your pants, the higher they will pull when you sit.

I don't necessarily recommend this, but as a more extreme solution for guys who insist on crossing their legs but have extra-skinny ankles and thus have a problem with schlubby falling socks...you could try sock garters. If pulled-off (and up) correctly, I could imagine it being a really cool "retro" accessory with the right outfit.  After all, with lower east side hipsters bringing back old-school classics like black plastic frames, timex watches, doc marten boots and polaroid cameras...perhaps these are the next "cool" thing.

    

Yours in style,

SB

SB Endorses: The Sweat Trousers!

I am the opposite of an impulse shopper. I have a running list of things that I would like to add to my wardrobe, if I can find them. Every now and then, however, I'll come across something and say "Damn...I gotta have it".

The other day, it was these "luxury fleece" dress-sweats by the  "Original American Outdoor Clothing Company" Woolrich.

 

These are sweat pants that you can wear to work! (provided you have a pretty cool boss).

I actually wore them to work yesterday (see below) and proved that, when styled correctly and hemmed properly, you can wear sweat pants with a tailored blazer and dressy lace-ups. Most people didn't even notice they were fleece - and those who did thought it was genius.

Who says work clothes can't be comfortable?

Yours in style,
SB

Reader Question: Flat Front w/ Cuffs

Reader:

Due to my build I find that flat front pants are more flattering. Since you typically only see cuffs on pleated pants, I’m at the point of buying my flat front pants longer and having the tailor create the cuffs. Is this a fashion faux pas?

Thanks!

SB:

Hey. Thanks for reading.

Not at all! I do it all the time. In fact, I only wear flat front pants, and most of my heavier weight pants have cuffs. For a cooler look, try a wider 2 - 2 1/4" cuff, and keep the pants short with little to no break.

Yours in style,
SB

Reader Question: The Pant Problem

Reader:

Hey Style Blogger,

Over time I've been able to find shirts that fit well, but have difficulty when it comes to pants. I've purchased a number of pants from brands like Banana Republic, but when I wear them under a fitted shirt/blazer they appear heavy/blocky. So getting that sleeker (not skinny pant) look is difficult. What brand/type of pants should I buy (that won't need to be chopped up at the tailor). I am willing to taper to 7" but want to know if there is more to it.  I am seriously considering having my mom teach me how to sew.

 

SB:

I know exactly what you mean. Since there are so many factors that go into their fit (waist size, seat allowance, thigh width, calf width, inseam length, ankle width, posture, how you walk, how the fabric drapes, etc.) it is very difficult to find a pair of pants that fit properly.

I struggled for years trying to find the perfect fit, including countless visits to the seamstress (some good, some not so good). The last straw was when I had to throw out some pants because they were so chopped-up that they looked like a home-ec project.

Then I went custom, and never looked back. Not only can you get the exact fit you are looking for, but you can also choose from hundreds of fabrics and customize all the details to your preference. It may be slightly more expensive, but I would much rather have 2 pairs of perfect-fitting pants (probably dark navy and medium gray to start) than 4 pairs of ill-fitting pants. Besides, if they fit properly, they will last much longer since there is less strain on them from everyday movement.

If you are in NYC, or plan on visiting anytime soon, check out my guys at MAB. You will love them.

Hope this helps,
SB

Reader Question: Grey Jeans

Reader:

Hey Dan,

What are your thoughts on grey jeans? This seems like a decent way of changing up my jean cycle. Thanks

 SB:

TWO THUMBS WAY UP!

Just like indigo wash selvedge, keep them slim (not skinny) and straight through the leg. Also, keep the back pockets blank (or simple) and wear them at your waist.

Thanks for reading,
-SB

Reader Question: Human Drop

Reader: 

My question is about sizing a suit properly.  I am about 6 feet tall and weigh about 185-190 pounds and I just finished playing college football.  I am not really muscular but in order to get the proper fit in the chest I have to go with a suit with pants that are much too big in the waist.  I understand I need to get the suit altered, but they can only take-in the waist so much right?


Thanks SB!

SB:

Hey. Thanks for reading.

Like alot of my friends, you have an athletic build which makes it hard to fit suits. Unfortunately for guys like you, the standard suit comes with a 6 or 7 inch "drop", meaning the waist measurement of the pants is 6 or 7 inches smaller than the chest measurement of the jacket (i.e. suit size 40, waist size 33 or 34). Since we are all human and rarely fit this standard mold, this makes it difficult for many guys to buy suits off-the-rack. 

Unless you are ready to make the jump to custom, you need to buy suit separates rather than suits. Think of it as a matching jacket and pants sold separately of which you can choose any size. Get the jacket in whatever size fits you in the shoulders and chest, then you can easily have the sides taken-in and the sleeves lengthened/shortened at your local tailoring shop (or have it done at the store when you buy the jacket). Get the pants in whatever size fits your waist best, the less taking-in/letting-out the better.

Hope this helps,
SB

Reader Question: Inseam Unease

Reader:

My question is about suit pants and the proper length. Some magazines suggest having your pants a little shorter than normal and either going sockless or adding some splashes with some wild socks which I liked both looks. However if i just want some normal looking suit pants where should I get them hemmed to? The askmen.com website suggests half way between the ground and top of the sole of the shoe. I felt this was too long. Please let me know what you think. Thanks

SB:

Hey thanks for reading. Hmmm. "Normal" looking is not my forte (just kidding), I know what you mean. Although it's a cool look, depending on the occasion, the weather, the season, your shoes, etc. sometimes you just don't want your ankles showing.

People have been arguing back and forth about inseam lengths for ages, and everybody has their opinion (along with level of traditionalism). It really comes down to a matter of personal preference. Do what makes you feel comfortable.

As a general guideline I wear my pants slightly (1/2" or so) shorter in the summer. If you are really anal (like me) you can learn to hem your own pants and change the length by the season, but if you are looking for something "normal" that can be worn year round I'd say my new "standard" would hit at about 1/4" - 1/2" past the top of the back of your shoe, and try having them hemmed slightly at an angle so that the front is not breaking too much.

Hope this helps. SB

Tip-of-the-Day: Rubber Band Man

Here's a pet peeve of mine...You know when have the perfect shirt tuck-in, all the way around, perfectly placed...then you bend over or reach up for something, and your shirt pulls out at the sides and billows around your waist? Yeah, I hate that.

The fact of the matter is, with your everyday movements your shirt is bound to pull out of your pants and look sloppy around the waist. However, there is a (very clever) solution to avoiding this.

Have your tailor put a small, ribbed rubber strip on your trousers' inner waistband. This "sticky strip" this will keep your shirt from sliding out of your pants.

My boys at Michael Andrews Bespoke include this feature in all of their pants...and trust me, it works great!

No more need to continuously re-tuck that pesky shirt tail.

Yours in style, SB

Reader Question(s)

Reader:

What's up man, 2 questions...

1. I'm feeling the whole tie bar look and just got a pretty sweet one off of amazon.com...The more I rock it, the more I am realizing that I could have gotten a much better one. Mine is a little lengthy and isn't the kind that snaps into place, thus sliding it over the tie is a little annoying. Can you link/recommend any better alternatives that wont break the bank?

2. When you get your suit pants/slacks altered do you have the leg taken in, and if so what width do you ask for, i.e. 8 inches, 9 inches?

SB:

Hey, thanks for reading!

1. There are thousands of tie bars out there, of all lengths and widths. Some have engravings, some are even "bejeweled". My advice is to keep it simple...as simple as possible. Go with a narrow silver tie bar, 2 inches long (ideally you want your bar to reach perfectly across the width of your tie, no shorter, no longer). The one I wear is by Tiffany & Co. It is 100% .925 silver which will last longer than I will, and will not go out of style any sooner. Find it here. J. Crew has a similar one which is a little cheaper. Some guys get it engraved with their last name or something inspirational, but in my opinion this looks tacky. If you feel the need to mark your territory do it on the underside where it is concealed but just as much "yours".

Photo via GQ.com

2. I usually try to buy pants that are already tapered down in the ankle, but if you find a pair that you really like and they are not slim enough through the leg, yes you can have them tapered by your tailor. Just make sure you go to a good tailor because it can be tricky to make the tapper look natural. I wear my pants slimmer than most American men at about 7-7.5" across the hem, I recommend to most guys to go with an 8" ankle to be "safe".

Hope this helps. Yours in style, SB.

What's with the denim fetish in America?

Spending time in Europe taught me many things. One of which is that American men are obsessed with denim. Everywhere you go it's jeans, jeans, jeans. Some guys only wear jeans, everyday.

Don't get me wrong, I love denim too...but wearing your heavy Japanese selvage denim in the heart of the sticky summer with sweat beading down your brow just doesn't make sense.

Invest in some lightweight cotton pants. Khakis, chinos, cotton trousers, whatever you want to call them. Not only do they breathe much better, but they give you a smarter summer casual look. Pick up (at least) one pair in a medium/dark shade of "khaki" and one pair in navy, these two go with just about anything. Depending on your level of boldness, you can wear pretty much any color you want. I wore my lime green pants ($8 at H&M) the other day and people loved 'em.

As a guide, keep them slim through the leg (tapered or straight), medium/low rise, and about 7-8" width across at the ankle (slim at the ankle is crucial!). Again, if your swagger is turned up enough (and your ankles caught some sun this summer), wear them rolled with no socks or get them hemmed a half inch above the back of your shoes.

The other good thing about switching to these pants, especially for denim lovers, is that it will spice up your relationship once the temperature creeps down in the fall and you and your favorite jeans can rekindle the old flame.

Yours in style, SB

Tip-of-the-Day: White Jeans

Love wearing jeans, but hate wearing the same dark pair over and over? Invest in some white jeans!

The misconception is that they are too hipster, but (unless they are super-slim) they are actually classic and versatile enough to wear with anything from a bright colored polo in the Summer to a suit jacket and tie in the Fall/Winter/Spring. (Yes, I don't follow the ridiculous "Labor Day" restriction).

They are a blank canvas so you can wear them with basically anything, which makes putting on outfit together easy...and instantly stylish. Just keep them white, not beige or mother of pearl...and keep them solid white, no contrast stitching or loud pocket details.

Don't spill the red wine. Yours in style, Style Blogger.

Reader Question: Jean Hemline

Reader:

I was wondering if you could recommend a decent NYC tailor? I purchased the APC New Standard's but, I need to get them hemmed. Also, should jeans be hemmed like slacks in terms of whether they should break towards the bottom? Somewhat cropped? Or exact? Which would be more stylish in your opinion? I will wear these with sneakers most of the time. Thanks!

Style Blogger:

Hello, and thanks for reading! This is a great question, and one that I've been asked several times. It is a tricky one to answer, however. Jeans, since everybody owns at least one pair, are worn with a certain personal element; everybody has their own way to wear their jeans. A (very cute) young woman once told me "you can tell alot about a man by looking at how he wears his jeans". I thought it was by looking at his shoes..? Nevertheless, the issue of the hemline really comes down to personal preference.

Personally, I have two (very different looking) pairs of APC New Standards. The first are crisp and unwashed and the hemline is short (like trousers). I wear them with no break, no socks, loafers and a bit of ankle exposure. In my opinion that would be the most stylish way to wear them. On the other hand, my other, older, more broken-in pair of APC's are reserved for sneakers and casual shoes (mostly Chuck Taylors, maybe a boat shoe from time to time). This pair is also hemmed (because APCs come with an extended inseam), but they are longer and I wear them with a small roll at the bottom (maybe 1 inch or so deep). I think a rolled bottom looks best with sneakers.

If you are really adventurous (and the weather is warm)...beat the crap out of your APC's and wear them rolled up twice with a pair of broken in chucks...that is the most non-nonchalant but also chic way.

For a simple hem I bring my pants to the Korean woman at the dry cleaners around the corner. For more complex alterations I got to the experts at Michael Andrews Bespoke on the Lower East Side - they really do outstanding work and, as the name implies, they can make custom clothes that you can design and style yourself.

Thanks again for reading! Yours in style, Style Blogger.

The perfect pair of jeans

If there is one piece of clothing that every man should own it's a pair of A.P.C. New Standard jeans. They are the closest thing you can find to the perfect jeans. What makes them so great:

- Perfect fit. Straight leg. Slim but not tight. Loose but not baggy.

- Dark rinse that ages with you. The standard dark blue wash is the perfect blue jeans color...and if you don't think so, you can modify it by wshing them to a rinse of your liking.

- They get better with age, like fine wine.

- They are simple. No-nonsense medium sized back pockets. No over-the-top pocket details, no paint splattering, no beading, no super heavy stitching.

- They can be worn with anything - including a t-shirt and jeans or a tailored jacket and tie (as always. keep it on the slim side).

- They are plain enough that you can wear them everyday and nobody will notice. You literally only need one pair of jeans

In these tough economic time we are all turning to pieces that have great use value. At around $150, these are a great investment considering how much you can - and will - wear them.

Yours in style, Style Blogger

Tip-of-the-Day: To cuff or not to cuff

I am often asked how I feel about cuffs on a pair of trousers. As usual, I have a general rule about this too.

It looks better, and seems more appropriate, to have cuffs on a pair of pants made of heavier fabric (flannel, tweed, herringbone, heavy wool, etc.) and worn in the winter. Not only does it add the likeness of wearing an extra 'layer' which is best suited for colder months, but it also adds weight to the bottom of your wool trousers causing them to drape better as they fall. To add a more stylish element, make your cuffs a little wider than your average Joe. Go with 1 3/4" or 2", a look that is popular among fashionistos rights now.

On the other hand, the warmer and more nonchalant months of summer call for a regular hem, a little shorter to show a hint of ankle. Summer clothing, besides being more casual in general, can be simpler and have less details. Therefore, light-weight wools, linens and definitely cottons should not be cuffed.

Hope this helps.

Yours in style, Style Blogger.