Tuesday, April 7, 2009

Reader Question: Jean Hemline


I was wondering if you could recommend a decent NYC tailor? I purchased the APC New Standard's but, I need to get them hemmed. Also, should jeans be hemmed like slacks in terms of whether they should break towards the bottom? Somewhat cropped? Or exact? Which would be more stylish in your opinion? I will wear these with sneakers most of the time. Thanks!

Style Blogger:

Hello, and thanks for reading! This is a great question, and one that I've been asked several times. It is a tricky one to answer, however. Jeans, since everybody owns at least one pair, are worn with a certain personal element; everybody has their own way to wear their jeans. A (very cute) young woman once told me "you can tell alot about a man by looking at how he wears his jeans". I thought it was by looking at his shoes..? Nevertheless, the issue of the hemline really comes down to personal preference.

Personally, I have two (very different looking) pairs of APC New Standards. The first are crisp and unwashed and the hemline is short (like trousers). I wear them with no break, no socks, loafers and a bit of ankle exposure. In my opinion that would be the most stylish way to wear them. On the other hand, my other, older, more broken-in pair of APC's are reserved for sneakers and casual shoes (mostly Chuck Taylors, maybe a boat shoe from time to time). This pair is also hemmed (because APCs come with an extended inseam), but they are longer and I wear them with a small roll at the bottom (maybe 1 inch or so deep). I think a rolled bottom looks best with sneakers.

If you are really adventurous (and the weather is warm)...beat the crap out of your APC's and wear them rolled up twice with a pair of broken in chucks...that is the most non-nonchalant but also chic way.

For a simple hem I bring my pants to the Korean woman at the dry cleaners around the corner. For more complex alterations I got to the experts at Michael Andrews Bespoke on the Lower East Side - they really do outstanding work and, as the name implies, they can make custom clothes that you can design and style yourself.

Thanks again for reading! Yours in style, Style Blogger.

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