Cherry, Eh?

The 2010 Vancouver Winter Olympics came to an end yesterday, and we (us Canadians) went out with a bang! A great win, for a great nation.

For those of you who watched the game, you probably didn't forget a short interview with a man named Don Cherry. Cherry, an NHL head coach turned tv host whose best known in Canada for his analysis on "Hockey Night in Canada" is quite a unique fellow, eh.

Now I wouldn't go so far as to call him a style icon, but I have to say, we can all learn an important lesson in cojones from Cherry. For the record, I don't necessarily agree with his clothing choices, but I can certainly appreciate his "this is me" attitude.

Cherry is certainly not afraid to be himself and have a unique sense of style, as we can see from his custom-made floral-print double-breasted jackets and collars stiff and upright enough that he could take a nap standing up.

Think of him as the Canadian Craig Sager (although Cherry definitely takes the crown).

Regardless of his crazy costumes, I think the lesson to be learned from this man is important: don't be afraid to be yourself. Don't dress (or act, or strive, for that matter) to "fit in" with those around you. Don't be afraid to take risks because you are afraid of what your friends, or co-workers, or whoever might think. Express yourself and be true to who you are, in the way you dress, and otherwise.

Thanks for reading.

Your in style,
SB

The New Layering: Denim Jacket

One of my favorite looks is finally hitting the streets in a big way. Recently I've been seeing denim trucker jackets worn as layers under outerwear. I love this look! (and have for some time). Here are some recent examples shot by GQ's new street photographer during NYC fashion week:

For the record, I've been rocking this for over a year now, but I'm an honest guy...I stole it from Kanye West, who has been pictured doing this as far back as 2008. Trend-setter? Love him or hate him, I think so!

If you're going to try this look, your best bet is to get a fitted denim jacket (preferably a vintage Levi classic trucker) and wear it buttoned, with your outerwear (darker in color and contrasting in fabric) left open. 

If you're not into playing copy-cat, this can serve simply as an inspiring "new" way to wear layers. At the very least, it can help you think outside the box. 

Yours in style,

SB

Tip-of-the-Day: Tie/Lapel Ratio

I've received many comments and questions regarding my recent post about super-skinny ties, and the correct ratio/sizing. Here is a simple rule that can easily help with your proportions:

Your tie, at it's widest point, should be about the same width as your lapels (or slightly slimmer, but never wider).

This will give you a good balance. And as we all know, life is all about good balance.

Yours in style,
SB

Tip-of-the-Day: Lose the super skinny sh-t

A movement starts. Men start wearing their clothes more fitted, in part due to European influences.  More and more men shop for slim clothing, putting new found effort toward looking stylish. Time passes.

A trend starts. Trendsters get wind of this new "tailored" look and, in what seems like a natural progression, bring it to the next level. Slim turns to skinny, and stylish begins to look a whole lot like corny. A trend dies - some men go down with it.

Seriously, fellas, enough with the super skinny sh-t. In particular, ties.

There is nothing more "trying-too-hard-looking" than a tie that can be mistaken for your little niece's fat sneaker laces. At 1" (2.54 cm) wide, neckwear screams "look at me, I'm really cool!".

Your tie, like your clothing, should be slim, not skinny. The difference can be inches, or fractions of inches, but it is crucial.

When it comes to neckwear, try not to go any slimmer than 2.5" wide (2.75"is my ideal width...for now). Sooner or later tie widths are going to swing the other way, along with lapel widths and jacket lengths.

Oh yeah, and proportions are key! While I try to figure out a proper tie-width-to-waist-size ratio, lets just say that if you are a big guy, a skinny tie won't look any better on you than skinny jeans would.

Thanks for reading!

Yours in style,
SB

Tip-of-the-Day: De-Jacketing

A mentor of mine once told me "If you put your suit jacket on the back of a chair and lean back on it, your suit jacket will look as if you put it on the back of a chair and leaned back on it".

I often walk into restaurants or office buildings and see men in collared shirts sitting with their jackets all squashed behind them on their chairs. I never really understood this.

So today's tip is simple.

It is not necessary to remove your jacket if you are sitting at a restaurant, or in an office setting. Usually, I leave mine on all day. A man almost always looks better with his jacket on, and if the fit is right, it shouldn't be uncomfortable. (Also, keep in mind that a well tailored jacket can easily hide a not-so-well-tailored shirt).

However, if you really feel the need to take it off, most places where de-jacketing is appropriate should have a coat rack, coat check, or some kind of closet. So no more walking around in squashed wrinkled jackets.

Thanks for reading.

Yours in style,
SB

Tip-of-the-Day: A note on shin cleavage

There are certain little things, let's call them "pet peeves" for lack of a better expression, that can really ruin an outfit for me. One of them is the length of a guy's socks.

No matter how great a man's outfit is, if he crosses his legs and suddenly you can see a small area of pale, hairy leg between the top of his sock and the hem of his pants...attention is immediately drawn to it and it ruins his look. Yes, I am anal about details like this.

As a solution, simply make sure you buy socks that are long enough to cover the gap, and pull them up all the way. Remember, the shorter your pants, the higher they will pull when you sit.

I don't necessarily recommend this, but as a more extreme solution for guys who insist on crossing their legs but have extra-skinny ankles and thus have a problem with schlubby falling socks...you could try sock garters. If pulled-off (and up) correctly, I could imagine it being a really cool "retro" accessory with the right outfit.  After all, with lower east side hipsters bringing back old-school classics like black plastic frames, timex watches, doc marten boots and polaroid cameras...perhaps these are the next "cool" thing.

    

Yours in style,

SB

Tip-of-the-Day: Save the Pastels for the Summer

I kinda thought this was a little too "common sense" to blog about, but today I saw two different guys wearing easter-egg-colored shirts, under heavy (and oversized) black overcoats.

Fellas, lets save the pastel colored shirts and ties for the summer time. I can't really explain why, other than it just doesn't look right in 35 degree weather. I'm not saying you can't wear color in the winter, just that the hues should be muted. If you insist on wearing pinks and purples, keep them darker, stronger pinks and purples.

Most of the time I agree with GQ's fashion team...but I was surprised to see a couple of the colors in their new "Ultimate Winter Shirt-and-Tie Wardrobe" feature.

The bright pink shirt (2nd in the top row), and the teal/aqua shirt (3rd in the 3rd row) would be hard for alot of men to pull of in the summer, let alone the winter. Otherwise, mostly fail-safe options.

Thanks for reading!

Yours in style,
SB

Tip-of-the-Day: Create Your Own "No-Show" Undershirt

For a working man (or anyone who wears collared shirts), an undershirt is an everyday essential. It soaks in your persperation, keeping your dress shirt clean and, more importantly, dry. You definitely don't want to be that guy:

The problem is, for those of us who wear dress shirts, but not ties, a classic v-neck undershirt poses a problem. When a tie-less button-up shirt is worn with the top 2 buttons undone (which looks best), the white v-neck undershirt creeps a little too high, allowing the top of it to be seen...which drives me crazy!

So here is my solution...

Get some basic v-neck undershirts like these (3 pack for around $29.50). Make sure they fit snug.

Then, use a pencil to lightly draw the outline of a deep "U" shape:

Next, find a pair of scissors, and cut along the lines.

Now you have the perfect undershirt to keep your underarms dry, and have that sexy open-chest look.

Ironically, this picture is perfect because the homemade undershirt would follow a similar line as the "bib" design on Sr. James' shirt.

After all, nobody is immune to embarassing pit stains. e.g. Glamour Magazine's "Sexiest Man Alive":

Stay fresh.

Yours in style,

SB

Tip-of-the-Day: The Top/Bottom Rule for Cardigans

Today's tip is simple.

When wearing a cardigan sweater, leave the top and bottom buttons undone.

Before:

Wearing the sweater all-buttoned-up creates an uptight looking high stance and a boxy straight bottom. Looks very mannequin-esk.

After:

  Photo by GQ

Leaving the top button undone creates a deeper "V" stance which makes you look longer, leaner, and taller. Leaving the bottom button undone breaks up the boring straight-across line at the waist, and adds a sort of "sprezzatura" - Italian for stylish non-chalance.

Thanks for reading.

Yours in style,
SB

Tip-of-the-Day: Dress like a cartoon!

So this is going to sound funny (no pun intended). You've probably never been advised to dress like a cartoon...but watching your favorite animated program can be a lesson in proper-fitting clothing! Don't ask me where I get this stuff...but most cartoon characters have perfectly fitting clothing (I know, because they don't have bodies).

The lesson here is that your clothing should follow the natural lines of your body. Your shoulder seams should hit at your shoulder (not hang off), your inseam should cover your leg (not too short showing your socks, and not too long bunching up at your shoes), your sleeves should hit straight down at your wrist (not bunch-up or hang into your hands), your collar should fit your neck (not hang off), etc.

Even Homer has a great tailor.

Yours in style,
SB

Tip-of-the-Day: Goodwill Hunting

Now that cold weather is officially upon us, it's time to break out the heavier fabrics. I love this time of year because I have some kind of fettish for heavy oxford cloths, wool flannels, tweeds, and cashmeres. In fact, I like these thicker fabrics so much, I try to wear them head to toe in cold weather, including in my breast pocket.

I was looking to change up my basic white linen/cotton pocket square that I wear so often for something heavier, and more colorful, but couldn't find anything I liked, and didn't really want to pay $75 for a fricking handkerchief. So, here's my secret...

Go to a thrift or goodwill store:

Pick up a plaid flannel shirt for about $4:

Cut a square 16" x 16" out of the back of the shirt:

Fold the square like this:

 TA-DA! You have a brand new, one-of-a-kind, winter-ized pocket square, for $4!

The great thing about this is, not only do you save $$ and get a truly unique accessory, but you also have a selection of hundreds, maybe thousands of fabrics to choose from.

Yours in style,
SB

Tip-of-the-Day: The Refresh Button

Most guys have a navy blue blazer (if you don't, you should get one). It certainly is, and has been for a very long time, a staple to the everyman's wardrobe.

The problem is, you wear it all the time and you are getting tired of it, but you also don't want to get a new one because you can't justify spending money for something you already have. Here is a simple and cost effective solution to refreshen your blue blazer: change the buttons!

Take your blazer to your tailor and tell him/her that you want new buttons put on it (or if you're crafty, you can sew them on yourself, like I did yesterday). Assuming the buttons are currently black, you can change them to something classic (but a little bolder) like light brown marble, gold, or silver. Or you can throw caution to the wind and go with something a little more in-your-face like a guy I met the other night who had red plastic buttons on his jacket (which looked so cool...I'm peeved I forgot my camera).

So go ahead, click the refresh button.

Yours in style,
SB

Tip-of-the-Day: Say NO to designer belt buckles!

We get it. You went to Hermes, or Ferragamo, or Dolce & Gabanna and spent $300+ on a new belt, and you want everyone to know. The irony is, there is nothing that makes a man look more corny (and borderline insecure) than a "I paid alot for this!" belt buckle. Not only does it take attention away from your outfit, but it pretty much screams "fashion victim".

Instead fellas, go with something slim, classic and subtle, like this alligator skin piece by Martin Dingman for dressy occasions:

Or this rough and rugged bridle leather strap by John Varvatos for more casual times:

On a similar note, if someone asks you what brand name a piece of your clothing is, don't be quick to shout a high-end designer's name. It doesn't make you cool. Even if you remember the exact price and the sale associates face, play it cool and act like you don't remember. Modesty is charming.

Yours in style,

SB

Tip-of-the-day: These pockets are made for using...

Your blazer/suit jacket/sport coat, or whatever you want to call it, has pockets. These are not decorations. Carefully cut them open (since they are usually sewn shut on a new jacket) and use them!

Remember that clothing, from its origin, was designed for utility. Not only does it cover your nudy parts, but it also keeps you warm, comfortable and holds your everyday nick-nacks. With that said, there is something classy and stylish about a man who knows how to "use" his clothes the way they were designed to be "used". Think of it this way; pants are meant to fit at the waist, which explains why your young hipster cousin looks foolish (and looks like he is trying way to hard to be rebelliously "cool") when he sags his pants down below his ass.

On one of my (and probably also your) favorite street style bogs, The Sartorialist, photographer Scott Schuman frequently shoots his male subjects with their hands in their jacket pockets. See below.

Photo by Scott Schuman

So whether you use them to store your camera or your keys, or just to keep your hands warm as the temperature creeps lower, open up the pockets and get the most out of your jacket.

Yours in style, SB.

Tip-of-the-Day: Perky Pocket

Don't you hate when your pocket square falls into your pocket and nobody can see it? Well I do.

Here's a quick and simple solution: pin it in place.

I usually do this with a simple lapel pin (the ones with the small gold clip on the backside). Reach down inside your breast pocket and stick the pin through your folded (or "puffy") pocket square and through the inside of your pocket so that the small clip is on the inside of your jacket.

For those who don't like the idea of making a small hole in your jacket lining, the same trick can be accomplished using small magnets.

There you go, no more pesky disappearing pocket accessories.

Yours in style, SB

Tip-of-the-Day: Cedar Stinkproofers

I thought this was a given, but you need to put shoe trees in your leather shoes! All of them. Every time you come home and take them off to pass out on the couch.

Get a decent pair of shoe trees made out of cedar wood. You can pick them up at just about any department or housing store and not only do they add years of life to your shoes by holding their form to avoid creasing, but the cedar wood also absorbs moisture and odor.

So before you head out for the night on the sockless bandwaggon, make sure you ain't bringing the funk to the party.

Go out, and be fresh. -SB

Tip-of-the-Day: Hybrid Car = Good...Hybrid Shoes = Bad

There are dress shoes, and there are sneakers. The two should not be combined. Very easy tip for today...stay away from any footwear that can be described as a "hybrid" or "cross" between a dress shoe and a sneaker.

Examples to avoid:

Yours in style, SB

Tip-of-the-Day: Rubber Band Man

Here's a pet peeve of mine...You know when have the perfect shirt tuck-in, all the way around, perfectly placed...then you bend over or reach up for something, and your shirt pulls out at the sides and billows around your waist? Yeah, I hate that.

The fact of the matter is, with your everyday movements your shirt is bound to pull out of your pants and look sloppy around the waist. However, there is a (very clever) solution to avoiding this.

Have your tailor put a small, ribbed rubber strip on your trousers' inner waistband. This "sticky strip" this will keep your shirt from sliding out of your pants.

My boys at Michael Andrews Bespoke include this feature in all of their pants...and trust me, it works great!

No more need to continuously re-tuck that pesky shirt tail.

Yours in style, SB

Tip-of-the-Day: A new shirt wardrobe for $20!

When wearing a suit with an open collar (no tie, one or two buttons undone) your best bet is to wear a button-down collar shirt so that the collar "sticks up", holds its form, and effectively frames your face.

The button-down collar:

However, most guys who wear ties on a daily basis generally have a collection of point or spread collar shirts (not button-downs) because these typically are easiest to pair with a tie. The problem is, when you remove your tie the collars on these shirts will flatten out and hide under your lapel, losing your collar's clean neckline.

See below...George's collar is "floppy" and doesn't frame his face, while Brad's stands upright which creates a nice clean line making him look more "put together". See the difference:

Therefore, in the past I would recommend that a man have one collection of shirts to wear with ties (typically with point, classic or spread collars) and a separate collection to wear open under a suit jacket (with button-down collars or large stiff-pressed collars).

The good news is, the solution is here...and it only costs $20. Warning...this might make you think "Damn! Why didn't I think of that!?"

They're called "Wurkin Stiffs". They're magnetic collar stays with small (but strong) magnets that hide inside your collar to effectively hold your collar open and up-right, making you look like Brad below (or at least making your collar look like his).

For more information on how these work, or to purchase them online, check 'em out here.

Yours in style, SB.

Tip-of-the-Day: The in-betweener

It's true, there is definitely a movement in men's fashion right now inspiring men to mix casual/sportswear with tailored/formal wear in the same outfit to create an "in-between" look comfortable and appropriate for most occasions. This is not a bad thing, I often do it myself. If pulled off properly, it can be a fresh twist on some of your classic pieces. Example:

photo via GQ.com

This "in-between" look can either be accomplished by adding some formal pieces to a casual look (add a waistcoat or blazer to your usual shirt + jeans look) or adding more casual elements to a "dressier" look (throwing on a pair of classic sneakers with a suit, or throwing a vintage denim jacket over your shirt + tie look). Casual-ling up a look, however, is not accomplished by simply leaving your shirt untucked. I see so many men, especially in the nightlife scene, wearing the same shirts they wear during the day, but because they are at "play" and not at work, they change their trousers for jeans, lose the tie and leave their shirts untucked - with shirt tails ballooning past their back pockets.

An untucked shirt does not make a look more casual, just more sloppy, bordering immature. So today's tip is quite simple: when in doubt, tuck your shirt in! (Yes, even when wearing jeans).

With that said, not all shirts need to be tucked in, but you should know the difference. The vast majority of button-down "dress" shirts are long through the body and are meant to be tucked-in (hence the extra fabric in the tail which prevents the shirt from becoming untucked with your day-to-day movement). There are other shirts, however, which are meant to be left untucked - these are shorter, slimmer cut and hit just past your hips (see cuts by Band of Outsiders or American Apparel).

One last thing...If you are wearing a tie, a waistcoat/vest, a cardigan, a v-neck, or basically any other kind of sweater/layer over your shirt (other than outerwear), ALWAYS tuck your shirt in. The shirt ends poking out from under your sweater are not flattering.

Yours in style, DT